Carb Options

Does anyone have any suggestions for new carbs for a '73 232? I would prefer something currently produced, but anything will do. The Carter YF is giving up the ghost due to stripped threads in the bowl cover (P.O.).

 

Dont give up on it yet they are easy enough to tap out slightly larger, I have salvaged stripped 10-32 bowl screws by running a 12-24 tap into them, Just take your time and back out the tap often to clean the chips out. Use a standard tap and when you are done gently running it to the bottom in all the holes grind down the tap to make a bottoming tap out of it and run them again.

The 12-24 tap will not leave the casting to thin inside the bowl, works good.

 

Save up for EFI. Best mod I have done yet!!!

 

There's a guy in Colorado springs who has kits to replace your carb with a Motor Craft 2100.. He had an ad on ebay and has a ton of info..

Link

 

+1 retapping

 

If I understand you correctly, + 1 retapping means the original 10-32 screws have been tapped out once already and are stripped out again. Can you tell me what size they are now, There may still be hope. We may still have one other option............doing some research..........will post back results tomorrow pm

 

You now have a Carter YF, which was used on dozens of vehicles over several decades. You should be able to find a good replacement carburetor without much trouble.

If you want a new production 1V carburetor, I'd expect the Solex sold as a Carter YF replacement for the F134 Jeep 4-cylinder would be the place to start. You'd need to rejet the carb to work well with the 232. I don't know of any other new production 1V carbs.

Stepping up to a 2V, the obvious new replacement carb would be a progressive Weber carb 32/36 DGEV imported by Redline. They have a kit that will make it a bolt on. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/kits/k550.htm Make sure you get a 1V-2V adapter with the kit, unless you want to change to a 2V manifold.

 

Means "I agree, you should retap the carb body."

 

Yesterday it was suggested to me by a friend to go the Weber 32/36 DGEV route, they said it was much better than the YF. I also found that Holley offers a reman YF specific for the Jeep 232/258, has anyone used a Holley reman? I've heard some horror stories about using reman carbs, but Holley is a name that I trust. In any case I will do the retapping as suggested so I can have an original spare on hand for originality.

 

Of course, the rebuild quality depends on the reman company. I don't know anything about the Holley remans specifically. In the past, the Tomco carbs were pretty good, but that was long ago. Whatever you do, hold on to your core.

 

No doubt, the main reason I have not just bought a carb yet is because I will not give up my core.

 

I agree with timgr, Whatever you do dont part with the original core.

 

I called the Carburetor Shop today. No rebuilds available, but the tech suggested the use of Heli-Coils instead of retapping. My local machine shop hates coils, and said to retap as suggested. Has anyone used the Carburetor Shop? Has anyone used Heli-Coils?

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/

As a side note, the tech also told me that my YF #6429S is a California Compliant carb. He thought someone might have replaced the original . He said Cal compliant carbs must be used with Cal compliant engines and vice-versa. How do I tell if the engine is Cal compliant? How do I tell if it is supposed to have the Cal compliant carb etc? Should I be concerned whether a rebuilt carb is Cal compliant or not?

This jeep was bought new in Waynesboro, MS in 1973 by my girlfriend's grandfather, it has less than 40,000 original miles, it further perplexes me that the carb would have been switched in the past.

 

I have to vote for the Motorcraft 2100 2bbl. No need to spend lots of $$ on one, they were found on nearly every Ford and AMC V8 of the 70's and 80's. Junkyards have them in abundance from $10 on up. Easiest carb to rebuild in the world, incredibly simple and cheap, the rebuild kit can be found at every FLAPS. They can be adapted to fit on your 1bbl intake, but the best solution is a later 2bbl intake and an aftermarket adapter plate. I put one (we had several spares lying around the garage from other Jeep projects) on my 258 several years ago to replace the YF and it really woke up the 258.

If you search the web for MC 2100 you'll find loads of info on them, it's a very popular swap with carbed YJ owners.

 

If you decide to stay with the YF dont loose allot of sleep over it being a Calif compliant model, It may have additional vacuum ports and slightly different calibration but nothing that will hurt your engine or general driveability. I will look up some 49 state specs and compare to the calif model for you tonight and let you know what the differences are, If any, Could be simple as a metering rod thats a little leaner in a specific spot or the idle/low speed jet size.

As for Heli Coils, I have used them and they work but I think the coil may require re-tapping thats larger than just re-tapping to a 12-24.

I would epoxy 10-32 studs in the stripped out holes and use nuts before I would resort to Heli Coils on the YF carb body.

I have limited experience with the Carburetor Shop, I did try to buy an assortment of some YF Main and Low Speed Jets from them recently but they would not sell them to me as separate components. I got the impression that even if I got a whole kit they may only sell me one item each per kit.............Have not tried to re-negotiate that with them yet.

 

Certainly a Jeep delivered in CA would need that carb, but I don't think a 49 states Jeep would be prevented from using that carb. I expect this point is moot today, since CA does not enforce emissions compliance for cars earlier than 1977, and they have the strictest emissions regulations in the nation.

I don't have a '73 manual to check, but if I did, I would look at what emissions systems were present on '73 232 CJs delivered in CA, compared to the same model delivered in 49 states. That might give a clue to the difference. For example, a vehicle delivered with EGR should have a slightly leaner mixture than the same vehicle without EGR. This would require a change in the carburetor.

A little JB Weld on a 10-32 stud is a good suggestion. You can make a stud from a screw with long thread, or look for some 10-32 all-thread. You want the amount of epoxy to be juuuust right though ... not enough to ooze out when you put the stud in.

 

6429S is listed for all 50 states by my book

 

I agree with timgr and jpflat2a, The carb you have does not show up as calif specific in any of the specifications that I researched, Specified for both 232 and 258 applications in the CJ, There was a 6401S for the early 73 models and a 6429S for the late 73 models, both used the same 120-401 ( .101 ) main jet, the same 75-1972 ( .079 * .067 * .050 ) metering rod and the same 11-353S idle / low speed jet.

They both were equipped with a pump diaphragm washer, The service information was a little gray but you should have a small thick washer ( step up limiter ) between the lower pump spring retainer and the lifter link ...........or a small washer on the pump shaft inside the pump diaphragm cover ( high speed step cut out ). or possibly both.

The research indicates that you have the correct YF on your jeep, Comparing specifications I could not find anything that indicated otherwise.

The Motorcraft 2100 as pathkiller suggested is a proven option if one chooses to go that route.

 

My particular carb has but one vacuum port and that goes to the vacuum advance. Also there is no EGR in the manifold, so I am leaning towards the Carb shop is mistaken as to the relevance of CA only carbs. The tech even mentioned that my carb was "...too new..." for them to deal with.

As for the epoxy, the stripped screws in question are the three along the outside edge of the bowl. Can I still use the epoxy in a bottoming hole?

I put a kit from my local advance auto in it. I only used about half of the generic kit: 3 gaskets, accel pump, and all assoc. parts for the fuel needle, seat, etc. And yes, I forgot where the washer went in relation to the retainer springs. Thanks to The Old Car Manual Project, I was able to resolve that.

After install had a hot flooding problem, perc valve stopped up. Removed again and cleared. Then fuel was bubbling up the main while idling, removed and adjusted metering rod and stopped leak. Then the last of the three screws gave up the ghost and fuel leaks around the bowl internally and externally contuining my saga of hot flooding.

Thanks again for all the input, this is my final (until something else goes) drivability issue that I would like to before really putting some miles on it.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/YF/AMC1973/pages/MChasAMC_1973_4-2-4_jpg.htm


Sorry for the long replies, but I have to drive 23 miles to get internet access, so I have to make good with my time.

73's (Ham Radio)

 

The page at the link you posted looks basically the same as the 1972 FSM, available here:
http://trailforge.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=30

Re the epoxy, yes, I don't see why not. You'll want to make sure there is no epoxt on the edge of the bowl, so that the carb top will seal properly. I'd smear a little epoxy on the threads and screw it in, then see how much excess there was. If too much, screw it out clean up the excess and try it again.