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Bellcrank rebuild, what am I in for

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by OlWillys, Jul 17, 2004.

  1. Jul 17, 2004
    OlWillys

    OlWillys New Member

    Bethel Island,...
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2004
    Messages:
    15
    Ok, I still don't have a manual, I've got one coming but who knows when it will get here.

    I am defunately going to have to rebuild my bellcrank. I jacked the Jeep up today and was scared by the amount of slop coming from that area. No wonder the darn thing is wandering all over the road.

    What am I in for? Some of you explained in my steering thread about a pin that I have to drive out, that seems like the tough part of the job. How long can I expect this job to take? Am I going to need a torch to heat the pin area? Will I need any special tools?

    Thanks for clueing me in-Rob
     
    OlWillys, Jul 17, 2004
    #1
  2. Jul 17, 2004
    vanguard

    vanguard

    Rob,

    I did mine several years ago and don't remember needing any special tools.

    Joel
     
    vanguard, Jul 17, 2004
    #2
  3. Jul 17, 2004
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
    Messages:
    1,245
    Rob,
    Very simple. Jack it up. Disconnect tierod end @ bellcrank. Disconnect draglink. Loosen 3 bolts to take
    bellcrank off of frame. Disasemble bellcrank. Loosen cross bolt. Remove. Need 2 big wrenchs. One on
    each end of spindle, take off nut. Pull spindle out. Notice washer and bearing placement. Replace w/
    new internals or clean existing. Reassemble. Tighten the spindle tight. Then tighten cross bolt. Then
    loosen the spindle bolt to where it moves freely w/ no binding. Then remount unit and hook up drag link
    and tierod.
    It took me about an hour or so. And it does make a huge difference. Good luck!!!
    :stout: :stout: :stout:
     
    panzer, Jul 17, 2004
    #3
  4. Jul 17, 2004
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2003
    Messages:
    654
    Bellcrank

    DUH!! Special tools- :beer: No job is done without a celebratory cold one!!
     
    willysnut, Jul 17, 2004
    #4
  5. Jul 17, 2004
    Rob C

    Rob C Member

    Green Cove...
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    78
    Rob,
    As John said, it is a very easy job that will really make a difference in your steering. I don't remember having a hard time with the cross locking bolt, but as you know, nothing goes as planned when you work on these things. You might also order a drag link rebuild kit and do that at the same time. Good luck!

    BTW, good to see yet another Rob on the board.
     
    Rob C, Jul 17, 2004
    #5
  6. Jul 18, 2004
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,541
    My bellcrank was riveted and welded to the frame. Obviously original. But the rebuild was essentially as Panzer described it, except that I couldn't actually remove the bellcrank plate from the frame. After the power steering conversion, I took it off with the flame wrench.
     
    Posimoto, Jul 18, 2004
    #6
  7. Jul 18, 2004
    OlWillys

    OlWillys New Member

    Bethel Island,...
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2004
    Messages:
    15
    Sucess!!!

    My plate was also rivited to the frame so I did not completely remove the bellcrank arm. What the big problem was though was removing the old bearings. I hammered on them and they wouldn't move at all. I ended up cutting them using a Dremel wheel and then removing them that way by prying under them with a screwdriver.

    I also used an extra washer to take up the slop that remained between the top of the arm and the mount.

    In the end, it made a HUGE difference in how it steers and tracks down the road, much improved!!

    Now I guess it's on to the brake system.

    Thanks for your help guys--Rob
     
    OlWillys, Jul 18, 2004
    #7
  8. Jul 19, 2004
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
    Messages:
    4,425
    Just a refrence for the future...

    What works good is to use a large diameter pipe, or socket that has a bigger inside diameter than the bearings. Put that under the bellcrank. Use a socket that is just a little smaller than the bearings so you can tap on that to push the bearing down and out of the bellcrank.

    Install the new bearings the same way except tap one on and flip the bellcrank over and tap the other one in. Just make sure the bearings stay to the top and bottom so there's a gap inbetween the 2 bearings. The grease has to stay somewhere.
     
    termin8ed, Jul 19, 2004
    #8
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