hydraulic clutch conversion problems, mine doesn't work

trying to dial in my new setup. Problem is I haven't any experience with setting up a hydraulic system. Transmission shifts fine but when motor is started you can't shift into first without grinding it in. As far as what I have installed. I've kinda winged it by using a CJ master cylinder and push slave cylinder connected with a braided hose. Swing pedals are modified Sammy. Clutch,pressure plate and T.O. are from Mile High Jeep for V6/T90 conversion. Clutch release arm is a combo of two different arms one end for the T.O. , other end for the slave push rod. I couldn't find a factory arm the right length because everything was to long and hit the frame. V6/trans. are offset to drivers side so arm needed to be very short. Which should be OK. Anyway, it all looks great but the slave cyl. rod only moves 5/8 to 3/4" and that just doesn't seem to be enough. Master cylinder rod is being pushed in at least 1" by the swing pedal. I'm at a loss of where to go from here but start over. I called Advance Adaptors about a complete set. Pedals,master,slave and hose $425.00 ouch! Anyboby have a hydraulic setup that works?

 

take a look at my web page below.. might give you some ideas..


BUBBA

 

What type slave cylinder do you have? A push or pull type? I had the same problem with my push type. I fix the problem by bleeding all the air out of the master cylinder. Jees did that take a long time. Also make sure your slave mount isn't flexing. My mount was made out of 1/4" steel plate.

 

scott, I have the push type. Good point. Bracket is firm. I'll keep trying to bleed her. My brakes need going over also, 4 calipers yuck. Hey, my slave rod is soild round stock. No threads for adjusting play in pedal. Is there suspose to be some play like mechanical linkage. If so I'll need to make a replacement rod.

 

I was able to buy an adjustible rod for the slave cylinder. I found that the push type just bearly has enough throw to make it work with just a little free play. Maybe it has to do with the lengh of the clutch fork? My clutch fork is from a 78' chevy 3/4 ton p/u with the SM465 trans.

 

I got into a Novak Tech site (thru Pirate4x4.com forum) that has a detailed guide about clutchs and linkage and such. Great info. Looks like I should have done more homework on this subject. I've got a couple of other issues to check further. So out comes the Trans./T.C. once again. I'm going to be looking at a kit from either Novak or Advance adaptors.The Hydraulic T.O. bearing Novak shows is sweet. It might solve a couple of the problems. 1st. how short the clutch release arm needs to be because of frame distance. I offset the V6 to drivers side as recomended for frt. driveshaft. 2nd is the throw of a slave rod and adjustments. P.M.A. ,It's all good thoughts . $2.00+ a gal. gas isn't effecting my hobby yet. Once again guys, thanks for your help.

 

You could probably find a master cylinder with a larger piston bore or a slave cylinder with a smaller piston bore....or both. That way you will be pushing a larger volume of fluid into a smaller area and as a result will move the slave cyl. piston further

 

Thanks for trying to help guys. My clutch problems should be over soon. I've found I have combined enough in-compatible parts that I've decided to start over. I'm biting the bullet and doing what I should have done all along. I'm purchacing a complete system from Advance Adaptors. Pilot bearing,clutch ,pressure plate, T.O. bearing, release arm,swing pedals, dual master cylinder,slave cyl. kit, the whole works. They say it's a system that works and it better for the money they charge, $735.00. I'll know pretty soon and hopefully be done with it and driving my flatfender.