Flat Towing Questions

I just posted in the vacations section that I'll be going to Yellowstone soon. My question is for the folks who have flat towed their jeeps. I just got the new towbar installed and am waiting for the magnetic tow lights from Northern Tool.

My questions are these:
1. Which is the preferred method for the t case/ drive line. I've heard both methods. Disconnect the drive line is one, and leave the driveline, and put the transmission in neutral and t-case in 2 wd high.

2. I need some safe towing advice. I am going to do a pre towing run with my dads dodge in the hills around me to work out any kinks.

Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks- Anthony

 

I pulled the driveline. 10 minutes of my time is worth having the piece of mind.

 

Thanks guys...I'll read past posts and move forward (no pun intended). I guess a trailer is the next step.

 

Just FYI. Some of you gents that buy old jeeps or tow unregistered dedicated off road vehicles check the states you intend to go through.
I was told in CT that the wheels of an unregistered vehicle cannot touch the road.
I don't know about other states but just lettin y'all know, Bill

 

CA is the same way. Can't ever be parked or moved on public roads.

 

I burned up a rear output bearing on a Dana 20 because it had been sitting for a month and I drove it 20 yards to hitch up instead of going around the block several times to lub everything real good... the rear output was dry.
Disconnecting rear drive shaft can save sanity. Don't drop caps off u-joint. I use electrical tape to keep the caps on en route. Use correct torque number when you reconnect, caps can deform with the gorilla arm.
Safety chain both ends of tow hitch.
Have plenty of air in Jeep tires, low tire pressure and the tires grab road grooves easier and the tail starts to wag the dog.
The only thing stop the tail wag is to slow down- Slowly.
If you are driving a pickup, it is good to have 300-500 pounds of weight in the bed, especially if it is a half ton... Jack knife.
If you have a locking steering column, turn key to disengage lock so steering wheel can turn and disconnect battery.

 

tractor supply has a ball mount with a poly bushing for towing farm implements that I recommend.

check state laws about draw bar towing, or learn to play real dumb real fast.

 

T-case in neutral, tranny in high gear..............or get with the program and put FF with locking hubs on the rear also.

JB

 

I have flat towed jeeps many times. Trans in neutral and transfercase in neutral. No problems. I do recommend lock out front hubs

Regarding the dangers of flat towing, I did hear of a deer hunter who was flat towing his jeep with his motor-home. He also had his jeep loaded on the inside with several ice chest filled with food, beverages and ice. One of the ice chest slid forward and fell off the passenger seat during one the many stops and managed to shift both the tranny and transfer case in gear. He found out too late and had some real expensive damage.

So when you are towing or for that matter, doing anything with your jeep. Give some thought about what could possibly go wrong, (Murphy’s Law) and try to have a solution for it. Is the tow bar securely attached to the bumper of the jeep. Is the bumper really attached well to the frame of the jeep. If something comes loose, is there a safety chain.

The last thing you ever want to see pass you is your jeep that somehow became unhitched from your towing vehicle.

Regards
Cliff

 

Now I hate to be contra here, but my dodge 4wd truck calls for transmission in gear (std shift) and transfer case in neutral.


This would prevent the transmission from turning but still leave it free wheeling.

I think that makes sense for any 4wd unit since the main problem we are trying to avoid is lack of lubrication to the bearings.


Now if it has an automatic I guess it would be park and neutral if you have a unit that has a neutral available.

I've flat towed jeeps before, but I don't like to do it.

 

flat towing

Go with a rear axle that has a floater and hubs. I've towed mine several thousand miles so far. Not a problem and I think as good as it gets.

 

I have a 78 with 304 and warn ff with lockouts. I busted the lockouts and changed to warn drive flange. I still take the drive shaft off. One of these days I will get a trailer.

 

FWIW, I flat towed mine from SoCal to Va in '01 when I transferred. Tranny in neutral, xfer case in 2WD (locking hubs), OD in neutral. No heat build-up, no problems. Just don't back-up and think "defensive driving". Still driving it with no problems. (or would be if I wasn't aboard CV-67)

 

There is a guy in Tx that is making trailers specifically for jeeps. He is on the G503 board in the WWll jeep section. I know a few guys that bought them and they love having them. Imagine not having to worry about heat buildup or disconnecting driveshafts or magnetic lights that slide. My friend puts the trailer in the garage and leaves the jeep on the trailer. He mounted a removeable post w/ ball hitch in the floor of the garage so he can just lock up and drive up and off the trailer. One person can move the trailer when empty. Windshield down and there are no height worries.

 

So far I have done a few mile quick tow around town. Did not have brake lights hooked up and was avoiding the law. R) It tracked really well and did not feel it much. Now I've got to let the RV rental place know that I'll be towing. They will probably sack me with another fee.

 

Yeah they will let me, but I will loose my "free mileage." I just hope my lights will fit their plug. Mine is the 1" 4 pin. I,ll head down there on monday.