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Parking brake cable routing

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by krawl, Jul 2, 2008.

  1. Jul 2, 2008
    krawl

    krawl Peon Trainee

    Boise, Idaho
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    Oct 19, 2006
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    The PO installed a foot parking brake which was much longer than the stock cable length and had that cable snaking everywhere under the jeep. I purchased a used "T" handle hand brake and a new cable but I need some pictures or a good description of how the cable is routed or where it should be attached along the way. I think I found the hole in the transfer case cross member where the cable "sheath" is anchored but if anyone has a pic or can verify that as well it would be most helpful. Also where under the dash do I attach the hand brake?

    I was hoping there would be pics in the Gallery. :(
     
  2. Jul 2, 2008
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    San Diego,...
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    The handle on my 60 is on the left of the steering wheel near the door opening. Sorry but off the top of my head no info on the cable routing
     
  3. Mar 5, 2022
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Bumping this old thread. This is Fireballs pic of the cable under the seats. D3A533CD-ED54-4EEF-9391-B2E4C0F9A536.jpeg
    I laid out the cable that came in a box with my jeep versus the new one, and it seems like the new one is about a foot too long (it is 63-5/8”)


    This is what the Clevis ends look like with the ball end buried all the way.

    F443DDB9-3C57-4FF4-B95D-77AEEAC0FEA8.jpeg


    Does anyone know what this ball is on the end of it and where I could get another one if I cut the cable? If I can’t find anything would a lead split fishing sinker work?

    6575DE51-CEED-458B-8E1B-4E890571CDCC.jpeg

    Regarding the routing how does it go between the steering column and the engine?
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2022
  4. Mar 6, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    A lead sinker will not last the first application of the brake. A brass ball with a set screw might work but that may also just pull out. Perhaps the best would be drilling out the steel ball and brazing or silver soldering the cable in it. The caveat being it may make the cable brittle and have a short service life.
     
  5. Mar 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Note the overall length of the cable doesn't matter that much. It's the free lengths sticking out of the housing that are important. That's what determines the travel and the distance between the anchor points and what the cable hooks to. If the those lengths are the same with new cable, it will work fine.
     
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  6. Mar 6, 2022
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    What's the right way to route the cable and housing through the space between the bell housing and steering box etc.?
     
  7. Mar 6, 2022
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Think mine loops forward thru the firewall, brushes up against the left fender then loops down along side the bellhousing to the cross member. I use a couple zip ties to keep it away from the exhaust and my steering shaft where needed
     
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  8. Mar 6, 2022
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Sorry if this is a dumb question, but it attaches to the "fork" on the transmission support cross-member, right? UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_639a.jpg
     
  9. Mar 6, 2022
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    No...
    I think I hat fork is for the torque cable/strap for the fhead? There should be 2 holes for a bolt to go thru about an inch from that fork, towards the trans mount. It uses a metal piece that is bent around the cable with a tab to keep it from rotating. So one hole in the cross member for the bolt, one hole in crossmember for the locating tab.

    I'll see if I can get a picture
     
  10. Mar 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    That looks like the stay cable bracket and isn't used on V6 Jeeps. At least on my '69 and '70, the brake cable is anchored to the top of the crossframe with a clip and a bolt:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As for routing, there is a clip on the fender not too far past the firewall:
    [​IMG]

    Same clip different angle:
    [​IMG]

    I can't help you with routing around the brakes/steering/bellhousing. My '71 still has the original cable but has been converted to Saginaw steering. I replaced the cable in the '69 and like termin8ted I need to zip tie it to the brake lines to keep it away from the exhaust. My replacement cable looks like the same one you have and works fine.

    From the 1971 parts book, there are only the two clips from the factory and the loop past the bellhousing is free floating:
    [​IMG]

    Neither of my Jeeps still has the "Clip (Spring)" for the retracting spring to connect to. The spring on both is hooked to a hole in the actuator arm.
     
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  11. Mar 6, 2022
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Top view

    [​IMG]

    From the bottom. You might be able to see the tab sticking thru.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mar 6, 2022
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thanks you guys this is awesome
     
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  13. Mar 6, 2022
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    And I would sure love to use the original cable but the ball is about to pop off and it’s very frayed
     
  14. Mar 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Yeah, the same thing happened on the '69. The 70 still has the original cable in it for now.
     
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