worth rebuilding?

Sorry about having so many threads that last so long, but I am very grateful for all the help everyone here has provided.......now:

How do I tell if my carb is worth rebuilding? I don't want to tear into it until I have the kit, but I don't want to buy the kit until I know if its worth it.....any way to tell?

 

If its not physically broken, Linkage is all there and it does not have a bunch of stripped out threads ( even these can be dealt with ) its worth it.

If the throttle shaft has an excessive amount of play in it this to can be dealt with by taking the time to fit some brass shim stock between the shaft and carb body, I have done this on several units over the years and it works fine. Do not remove the throttle plate from the shaft.

So far based on the units I have worked on for myself and others the YF Carter will idle ok and perform well with .008 or less wobble in the throttle shaft. Any more than that it should be shimmed to reduce the resulting manifold leak around the shaft and keep the throttle plate centered in the bore.

Properly adjusted these old YF Carters can perform quite well. Dont toss it or let it go for a core exchange, The one you get back may not be as good. Rebuild the one you have. Can you tell me what model it is, Look on the body casting by the choke linkage ( small rod about 4 inches long ), If it is a 938SD it has all the later modifications already done to deal with the early side hill and steep grade idling problems sometimes encountered.

 

Actually its a 4002S..anything special I should know about it?...I have to wait about a week if I order the kit to rebuild it.....(it actually runs fine, little stutter every now and again, and hesitation before its warm). The only reason I think it needs a rebuild is that it is seeping fuel from every seem, and the throttle shaft is pretty loose....

By the way...what all should be connected to the carb when its all hooked up...I had the vacuum advance line, and a fuel line, but when I pulled the carb and tipped it: fuel ran out of another fitting that didn't have anything connected to it....am I missing something here?

 

I am not familiar with the 4002S being used on the older F-Heads ( I am assuming that is what you have ), Not that it wouldn't work ok if the calibration is close.

Seeping fuel from all the gaskets almost sounds like the float level is to high, Could be part of the sputter also.

Sounds like you may have an external fuel bowl vent that used to have a hose to a vapor canister.

Can you post a few pics of it so we can see what you are working with.

 

I will get some pics up today.....
The chart in the gallery for carbs offered pre 73 lists it for cj-3b thru cj6, doesn't give years though.....The more I find out about my engine, and the components on it, the more I think it must be a swap from something else.....anyway....pics soon.

 

Here we go:
The one with the circles......blue=vacuum advance fitting, green=fuel line, red=I don't know, but fuel dumps out if you tip the carb.......

 

Your carb looks like a very early S model, At first I misread the model number you posted.
The red one is a float bowl vent tube, some early carbs vented directly to the atmosphere. Later they started venting them to the inside of the air cleaner or to a vapor canister. Is there a matching hose connection somewhere on the bottom of the air horn between the air intake hose and the carb?
The ideal thing would be to connect a hose to the air horn or air cleaner ( part of vapor emission control ) or you could run a short piece of tubing to the firewall same height or a little higher than the carb, Put a cheap small fuel filter in the end of the tubing and secure it with the open end of the fuel filter pointing downwards. This will vent the fuel bowl and keep out water insects and other crud.

 

No, there isn't anywhere for the hose to connect.....I will come up with something though...thanks!

I will probably be asking for help with the whole shim thing in the near future.....do you have any pics/advice for getting it right? My throttle shaft is pretty loose, both side to side and front to back....

 

One other place to look for a connection for the float bowl vent tube would be the air cleaner itself, If you have an original oil bath air cleaner look on it also, sometimes they would provide an additional nipple for the bowl vent. It will look like the one for the PCV hose but smaller and may be located on the other side of the intake hose connection.

Shimming the throttle shaft is quite easy but does require some patience. You will have to remove the linkage from both sides of the throttle shaft, Do not remove the shaft from the carb body. If you can measure the amount of play it will help with shim stock selection if not thats ok a little experimentation will yield the same result.
Go to your local ACE or other Hardware store and see if they have any brass shim stock, Sometimes they carry a small packaged assortment of several small sheets in sizes that will generally include .001,.002,.003, .005 and .010.
One of these small assortments is handy and will contain enough sizes to get the shaft clearance back to a servicable amount.
Cut a small strip of shim stock that is equal in thickness ( or as close as possible )to half the total shaft play long enough to wrap all the way around the shaft without overlapping itself that fills the entire bore from the outside of the carb body to the throttle plate, Its ok if it sticks out of the carb body a little. Remember that you dont need to get all the wobble out just enough to reduce play to .006 or a little less, The shaft should rotate freely and not bind.
With the carb base secured in a small vice or clamped to the workbench you can push/work the shim into the carb body around the shaft a little at a time with the tip of a small screwdriver or other suitable object.
With a little experimentation and some patience you can restore shaft play to a serviceable amount. These brass shims will last quite a long time and remain in place fairly well, I have not had any trouble with them to date.

 

Thanks.....I will get the carb kit on its way...(should be fun I hope)....