Weber conversion F-head

Has anyone done this swap? If so, what are your impressions and opinions? I have to replace my carter Y-S carb (military application) and was wondering if the Weber is better than the Solex - or another Carter? Drivability is the key -

I am looking at the K-553 conversion kit -

http://www.webercarburetor.net/product.php?productid=16161

 

I don't know if the Weber is better than the Solex or not. I just went with the Weber.
I couldn't get the link posted above to work so this link may be a repeat:
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54906

I'm still VERY happy with it

 

I went to rebuild it and found that 2 of the 3 mounting holes from the main body to the throttle plate section are stripped out - and I was having a lot of issues with hot starts - the military carb doesn't have a traditional accelerator pump.

 

Just had a chance to check milage on some of my normal mountain routes: 16.1.

 

I did this swap years ago. Got the Weber 32/36DGV carb and bolted it on. Required an additional 3/4 inch spacer placed on the top of the head in order for the mount that came with the carb to clear the valve cover, but otherwise bolted it on and it worked great. Used a adjustable fuel flow regulator to regulate the fuel. Lot's more power.

Currently I am having some trouble with it though, but I expect this is my due to my lack of understanding about carburetors. I need to replace my fuel regulator and I expect it to help.

It's expensive really but I do recommend it. Had to get a machine shop to fabricate a 3/4 inch adapter to get it to fit.

 

That's interesting about the spacer. I don't remember anyone mentioning that before. I don't think mine interferred, not sure.
I did make a 1/2" spacer, but for other reasons:
1, because it seemed danged near impossible to get the dipstick out, and it's still a trick.
2, I wanted to remove the carb and adapter easily. I made a square spacer: the front and rear holes are tapped so I could bolt the adapter to it and actually get at the bolts (in stock config, the bolt on the valve cover side is blocked by the Weber). I drilled and countersunk the side to side holes to bolt the spacer to the head (after removing the orig carb studs). I used Allen cap scews and ground the height of the heads down.
I'm not a machinist, just have a drill press.

Interestingly, I don't have a fuel regulator.

The thing I like about the Weber and MSD 6 upgrades is that they are not vehicle specific, are in great demand, and can be transferred to many other applications.

 

Yea, getting the dipstick out is certainly a trick!:iagree:

 

Do you have any pictures of the carb and spacer installed? I have ordered the conversion kit and I want to see the clearance issues (dipstick/valve cover)
Thanks...

 

I can post pics later tonight hopefully.

 

Thanks - I would really appreciate it!

 

:drool:

 

Here's my spacer pic!

 

Sweet! do you have a picture from the other side, showing the clearance issue with the valve cover as well?

 

Not easy to see by this picture but if you don't have a spacer, you cant' get the "weber kit" mount on because you can't get to the bolt... unless you pull off the valve cover, but then you can't get the valve cover back on correctly.
My spacer lifts the whole thing 3/4 of an inch and allows you to have clearance enough to tighten the bolts and get the valve cover on. It's the top part of the weber kit part and the bottom of the carburetor itself that cause the jam against the valve cover... noted by the green line.

It still take off the valve cover to mount the carburetor, but now I can get the valve cover back on without much trouble.

I read about this on the CJ3 website at the following address.
http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/KamunenEngine.html

 

I have read that one many, many times - but I was determined to stuff a 4.3 chev into my Jeep - not so much anymore - I will install the weber kit, then this winter, I'll install the Clifford Camshaft and see how it goes.......
What did you make your carb spacer out of?

 

There's a machine shop locally that made it for me. It's just steel I believe.

 

I'd think it could be aluminum too, or even phenolic. You can buy blocks of phenolic (cloth reinforced plastic of some kind) from Small Parts Inc. and other places. Steel or aluminum would be cheaper material though, if you have or can enlist a shop to make it.