weird engine vacuum routing, no pcv????

Sorry about having so many questions, but I can't seem to find anything about an f-head being set up like mine. The pic shows where the hose goes from the cap on the valve cover to the intake, and then from the distributor to the carb. Is this incorrect, or do I just have a weird engine? (The hose from the oil dipstick tube runs to the air filter by the way.)
Any info would be great, thanks.

 

UPDATE:
Ok, so I've come to find that the IAT-4405 vacuum advance distributor that I have wasn't used on cjs. So does that mean that I have an engine out of a vj, dispatcher, pickup, or fc? And if so, is it normal to not have a pcv valve?

 

The dual advance distributor may not have came on the cj's but its a good addition so dont worry about it so long as there is no vacuum applied to it at idle.

As for the pcv issue, Yes there should be a valve. From your picture there should be a valve between the intake manifold and the valve cover pan.

Yours is set up exactly like mine except that I have a pcv screwed into the fitting at the manifold, I converted mine to the later valve configuration same as what you have now. There is still some out there to be had, Try the Fram FV264, its the hose to hose type or if you can find one the Car quest V115, it screws into a fitting at the manifold.
Your hose configuration is correct for proper pcv function, Manifold pressure draws air into the engine at the oil filler, then out the top of the valve cover pan through the pcv then into the manifold.

 

I will get a pic up in a second of where that line goes into the intake. Maybe that is a PCV, but I just assumed that it wasn't because I couldn't find any pics of a set up like this. Is there any way to know what this engine came out of or what year it is?
(casting # 4J321332)

 

This is it.

 

it looks like you already have a pcv screwed into the street L pipe fitting, Remove the hose and make sure.

 

yeah, I just pulled it off, (not shure why I didnt just do that in the first place), but the sping isn't doing anything, and I have white gunk buildup that was mentioned in another post. Do you have a part number or anything for this. This jeep is my daily driver and I need to get to work all week. What kind of danger am I looking at with a little condensation in the crank case?

 

Clarify please, when you say the spring is not doing anything what exactly do you mean, Can you insert a small screwdriver and push the valve up and down?

 

the valve just moves freely, and will actually fall most of the way out of the housing

 

Also, I found the carquest one, but they cant get it till friday. So I'm trying to find a quicker solution. No one seems to have the fram number you posted.

 

The valve operates like so...........when the engine is idling manifold pressure ( vacuum ) pulls the valve plunger down ( towards the manifold ), when heavier throttle is applied the little spring lifts the plunger and allows more volume through the valve to maintain a relatively steady airflow rate under the lower manifold pressure ( vacuum ).

If the spring is working remove the valve and clean it, Have you pulled the hose while the engine is running to confirm that you are getting vacuum? If you are not remove the brass fitting at the manifold ( the one the street 90 is screwed into ) and make sure it is not plugged with carbon, after you remove the brass fitting look into the manifold and make sure the drilled passage is open.

 

If you can clean the old one ( it could be working but just dirty ) and it will pass any air at all it will be ok for a few days untill you can get another one.
The Auto Zone PCV1140 is a screw in type and should get you by if need be, You may have to readjust your idle fuel mixture but this valve is very close to the same flow rate as the listed valves. I think the Fram FV263 is also a scew in type with acceptable air flow for temporary use

 

Yeah, the spring is actually broken, and not holding the plunger up. I will check for vacuum here in a minute and see if I can track down the autozone replacement. Do you have any ideas for sealing the dipstick channel better? Its pretty loose, and I believe that might be the source of moisture in the engine/

 

I found the autozone one. How much of a difference are we talking about here? If I adjust the air/fuel mix will I be able to get by with that one, or do I need to get the correct replacement?
(thanks for all your help by the way)

 

You should not see a huge difference but the valves are calibrated to be compatible with the fuel metering systems of the carb, Its possible you could get by forever but I would recommend ordering the Car Quest V115 as it is calibrated to the engine and fuel metering system on the F-Head.

If the proper valve was not available it would of course be a different story, Crankcase ventilation in an emergency is kind of like oil pressure, The important thing is that you have some They also serve to prevent a backfire from lighting up the crankcase so dont run without one. Run the 1140 or the 263 and adjust the idle mixture if need be untill the proper valve can get shipped.

As for the dipstick tube untill you can remove it and seal it proper you can wire brush it clean, wipe it with a rag sprayed with carb cleaner and rub some RTV on the joint with your finger.

 

Thanks so much for all your help. I'm taking off right now to get the valve....and some silicone...

 

Its been my pleasure, Its possible a temporary valve thats to large may cause a slight hesitation in the midrange throttle area, Dont worry about it as it wont hurt anything while waiting for the proper valve. I dont think you will have this problem because I know the valves I mentioned have a very close air flow rate.

Even if you have vacuum at the valve at idle volume of airflow is also important when the valve is fully open, Take the time to remove the two fittings and make sure the drilled passage in the manifold is open and that the brass fitting is not one of those that have a tiny 1/8 inch or smaller orfice drilled in it. If it does put it in a vice and slowly run a 1/4 inch drill bit through it.

Moisture can get into the engine many different ways, Even the ambient air you pull through it to ventilate the crankcase can introduce moisture into the engine, If the oil on the dipstick does not show any signs of water in the oil ( or coolant ) put the new valve in and you will be ok, The valve also routes hot oil vapor and piston ring/compression blow-by along with any exhaust that gets past worn exhaust valve guides back into the engine to be burned. These valves do allot more than get rid of condensation.

You may want to re-post your engine identification question, I am not to good in that department but we have members that are.