Rear Mount Fuel Tank M38

Just completed install of an early 70's fuel tank on my 52 M38. Got a good deal on a new tank ($25) from a guy going out of business, otherwise I would take Mike Boynik's tip and use a 78 and up tank as the 2 1/4" filler makes it that more difficult. Got the skid plate for a 78 and up. Some of the changes made were to move the rear x member 2 1/2" to give me clearance from the rear bumper to the x member. Looking from the rear the skid plate has an angle cut on the right rear corner and does not on the left. Had to make this cut so that it would mate up to the shape of the x member. Also bent the skid plate 2" toward the rear (put in press and bent just below the opening for the hold down strap). Because of the filler pipe being 6" long and extending over the frame rail I am unable to install the tank and skid plate as one unit. I put a spring bolt on the strap and bolted it up thru the rear bumper so that I could release the strap from below and and remove the skid plate and the tank as seperate units. Also I put 1/2 spacers under the tank to give me a little more clearance over the frame rail. Am raising the body with hockey pucks and that leaves me about an inch clearance between the body and the filler pipe. One of my concerns with this conversion is how close it is to the rear end housing. Two things made this difficult and that was having to move the cross member and using the tank with the 2 1/4" filler. Using the 78 and up tank, with the short filler and vent would have made it much easier. Here are some pictures.

 

Looks good! I just finished my 3a using a 78 and up tank and skidplate, and ran into all the same issues. FWIW, I'm also having to put some rubber straps between the tank and skidplate in order to get my fuel inlets above the frame rail. Here's a pic of how close my rear diff is to the skidplate, 2 3/4". Keep in mind this is with no weight on the vehicle using 3.5" BDS YJ springs with the axle in the stock location. I believe the diff may hit at full compression, as in both rear tires are stuffed into the wheel well. If one is up and the other down, I think I'll be okay.

Measure your spring length eye to eye vs. measuring the length of the main leaf. Divide that number by two and you will know how far back your diff will move rearwards at full compression.

 

Thanks for the response. Just went down and measured mine and have just about the same clearance (2 3/4"). Also where it is an M38, I have 11 leafs in the rear springs, so not that much flex, really give a stiff ride.