Headlight switch wiring question

Hi all,
I'm looking at my shiny new Crown headlight replacement switch. I don't have access to my 73 CJ at this time. I also have a copy of the TSM for 1973. I'm trying to decipher the terminals on the switch, some of which I can discern from the manual and my screwing around with a test bulb.

What I have so far:
B1 = 12VDC in to the switch
H = Headlights
P = Parking lights
I = I'm guessing instruments/panel lights. It comes of the wiper of the pot, but it appears to be bassakwards. When I turn the knob CCW the test lamp gets brighter. When I go all the way CW the light goes out and voltage goes to 0.
R = Rear lights
D = ? No clue
And 1 terminal one unmarked. If I feed 12VDC into it I can get the same reverse action on the test lamp.

I'm building a new dash on the bench to install in the spring.

Thanks!

SwampRatt

 

From what I can tell you have all of them correct. The terminal labeled D is where you'd plug in an optional dome light. Also when your turn the light knob all the way cw it will completely dim the lights, thereby no voltage. All the way ccw it will click and that means that the dome light would have cut on, and all the dash lights would be as bright as possible.

 

Swapping in a new headlight switch, and the Omix one I received is junk (all the Omix haters are saying "go figure"). When I inserted the stem in it to try it before mounting it, the stem clicked into place and seem to work fine. I removed the stem to reinstall it after mounting to the dash, and it wouldn't click back into place. It will slide all the way in when pressing the button on top of the switch, but it seems the internal part that holds the stem has broken. I have another one on the way from Rockauto, and this time I ordered a Wells brand. Hopefully it's better than the Omix, and hopefully Omix didn't just rebrand the Wells one.

 

Sub'd

 

Which switch did you sub?

 

Sorry, I meant subscribed(Just for future reference).

 

Oh ok. I just found and bought an NOS Jeep switch on eBay. I wish I found it before ordering the one last night.

 

Why would the yellow and blue wires for the tail lights be spliced with 2 red/blue striped instrument lights wires? When you pull the switch to the first click, isn't everything BUT the headlights supposed to come on? If so, the R and I terminals would be hot at the same time.

 

someone prolly burnt the rheostat for the dash lights and spliced em into whatever gave em juice

 

Shouldn't the instrument lights be on the rheostat portion with the rheostat being powered during both pull positions (park/tail/dash and head-lights).

 

Ah. Makes sense. Instrument lights have never been adjustable, so that prolly explains it.

 

I have this, might help. When I rewired I used a Chevy truck switch.