Bumpers front & rear/ side tire carrier... I fail.

That's close to what I'm shooting for, nice job btw!
But, I need the 2x4 to be able to put my hitch in there, so if I kept the C-Channel it would work but be sketchy. I see something in common on almost all these bumpers

 

So at some point I'm boxing my rear like you, BKD.
I made some progress today. I ground it all down, and just welded the tops. I tried one of the spring perches but my welder boogered out on my, and I wasn't gonna remove those 2 bottom rivets neither. I just welded the boxed part tight, and then took out the nuts (with some choice *cough torch* methods) and then the rivets with the same method, plus a punch.
It's all clean and ready for the 1" stuff to be cut down. Andrew said he has a bandsaw to do it. I may still take him up on it. Otherwise, how would a JigSaw or a SawZall do? Cut off wheel? I mean if a chopsaw cuts it width ways a cutoff wheel has to be able to do it.
Pics pics




I was thinking of going in from the underside, and welding in some carriage bolt heads, just as a little decoration, make it look more real. Opinions?

OH, and maybe this should possibly be moved to the build threads? Just a thought. Thanks mods.

 

I hope thats Ash because I don't think pine will hold up to 5Klb worth of pulling R)

 

Funny man I think I woulda said the same though.
Well I was mocking it up in the pine, since everything else about it went the opposite way I had wanted it to, so before I "set it in stone" I wanted to make sure I was right. That's a template.

 

After some good time in the garage, some ECJ5 illegal words, some bending of the torch, some pain in the body, and my best angle grinder, it's almost done!
I got the metal cut with the grinder/cutoff wheel, the chop saw and the sawzall. The chopsaw did the best work of all 3.

Tube was cut, too long still need to shorten and bevel it

<skip a few days>
Holes cut, chased the rust, all ready to weld. I love me some plasma cutter.

The nice holes for the nuts to squeeze through


Nice fit
Skip to done...

Had to take some of the 1" out for the grab bar to actually fit in, them CJ2's rails are too narrow!

The back

The welds, most look this good, good penetration, solid too

So after I get a grinder with a cut off wheel, I'll trim the length, cap the ends, and move on

 

Ok I forgot some, and am too lazy to click my edit button.
I was tacking the 1" stuff to the bumper, and was like hmm...these welds are like I Have no gas. But I turned it on. Pop pop pop still? What gives? Oh gas IS off. Then my welds went up and I was pleased.
My frame rails were crooked, and I didn't measure to square, so I just eyeballed it and fixed it most with a hammer. Then built the bumper to match. Upon tightening of the nuts, they came together a little, that's ok I suppose?
Grade 8 was used all the way around
Lots of cutting fluid was used (yes I did specially buy the fluid, just for you guys )
The D Rings look perfect, can probably pull anything.
And upon buying the 1" too wide stock, and having to cut it down, I lucked out. It needed to come down to 2 1/4 instead of 2, so I got some more meat to grap on there, as well as the 3" through the bumper is more visually pleasing.

 

Thanks Jim!
Yup, 5 years too young, oh well, I'm not big on the stuff so it's all good!

 

Ok, front is FINALLY done! yahoo!
Capped with 1/4" 2" strip. Should take a beating and ask for more...
I added some 3/16ths inch plate on the front, 3" wide, for more tree protection. Don't want this new bumper getting bent in or anything.
It looks something like this now...





Ok got this thing off the rear, and cleaned it up nicely.

Here's my new hitch, will use 3/4" grade 8 hardware to bolt it onto the drawbar.

Unfortunatly the rear bumper is toast! Rust holes, PO's weld job :angry: and bent to pieces. Now I need to make a new one, maybe out of some 3'16ths 2x4 box tube, but I need decisions helped on. It's 3" ID to slide over the rear frame rails, and then the spring plates sit on that. I plan to use another PTO on this thing with a mini auger (shooting range work) and need the PTO and drawbar back on there. I will ONLY bolt this time, no welds/rivits. Since the steel yard doesn't have any 3" ID box to cut out, where do I go from here? Have it made up maybe? I also am mounting the hi lift in a horizontal plane for the off road trips, and when I need the PTO on I'll put it in the rear for that time, if that makes sense.
Here's what I got.





And this rivit was in the center of my bumper, connecting a plate from the bumper to the V-braces above it. It has to be factory. Why the nifty little design?


Thanks!!! -Sammy

 

...good work...

 

Heres a link to some 3.5 square tubing with .250 wall making it 3" on the inside. Its not cheap but it should work. You will have to cut it length wise to get the desired width. I've ordered from onlinemetals several times and been pleased.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10371&step=4&showunits=inches&id=84

 

Looks good

Might want to get someone with a little more powerful welder to run a bead on that 1" stock on the front bumper. If that weld were to break while your getting winched/pulled out it would become a big problem pretty quick when it hits whatever is pulling u out.

 

Thanks everyone. Griff, I'll look into that, I prefer to buy locally though, just want to support my local companies and the shipping on that stock would be a "b"
Jason, the D-Shackles (not in picture, dad took them hunting) go into that 1" stock, so there's no way of the bumper popping. The winch is a slow steady so nothing should go right away, and I'd be amazed if both popped at once. The weld can't get much stronger as the bumper material is only 1/8th (all I had)
I'm sure the holes in the frame would tear long before the welds would break. I may add some extra bracing at a 45* in the back from the bumper to the reinforce plate however.
Thanks though

 

I like to support local companies as well. I normally by my steel from a local steelhouse. However when they can't get it I go to onlinemetals. Another good place to check is metalsupermarket if you have one locally. Shipping from onlinemetals has been pretty reasonable. I was actually kinda surprised it wasn't more expensive.

John

 

Hmmm metal super market, sure do have one. Never thought of them. I'm calling tomorrow Thanks!