rear bumper with swinging tire carrier project

Very nice!

 

Can you explain how that hub assembly is made up? Are there two bearings in the hub? Close up pics would be great.

 

This setup uses a regular trailer spindle and hub. One end of the spindle fits into the bumper and the other end for the hub assembly which includes. Seals, races, caged bearings, and washers. There are two different size bearings a larger one at the base and a smaller one on top. I think it is overkill, but works beautifully.

 

Is that picture of the bearings the ones you used? That big one looks huge. Maybe its just the pic but the OD looks bigger than the hub in the other pic's. Could you list the OD and ID of bearings you used or the two ID dimensions of the stepped spindle you used?

Thanks!

 

I finally started my rear bumper build last weekend but ran into the "first things first" list. Had to relocate the tail lights because they were too low. Got a set of LED lights and recessed them. (There's a leap of faith for you. Taking a hole saw to the Jeep.) Then after I tacked up the bumper mounts, I realized the rear cross member is a little too bent and warped to use (and probably too light weight, too.) I think I knew this all along but was in denial! R) So now I'm on that next. I'll cut out the V brace while I'm at it so I'm be able to install a rear fuel tank some day. Which means cutting and re-splicing the tail light wires which run through a hole in the driver's side V brace. I got the extra metal I'll need today, so Saturday's the day.

It's always something...

I'll start a new thread when I have something constructive to show. :smash:

 

Luckily I already put in a rear fuel tank so all that was taken care of, I know how it goes. I really need to reinforce the bumper and rearcrossmember attachments, but that means I have to drop the rear tank again...which I have done two or three times already That's the fun of workin on jeeps as long as you pace yourself....When you try to get it all done in a day...thats when you post "any body want an early CJ5?"R)

 

Yeah, I thought this was a good excuse to reinforce the cross member mounts, while I'm at it. I may weld 3" mounting straps to the new cross member and run them both inside and outside of the frame rails, where I'll bolt them together, sandwiching the fame rails. Not sure if this is overkill or not, but I'm thinking about it. May not need to be that aggressive and only do one on the inside. The 4" channel I got for the cross member doesn't have much meat on the sides, so I may have to weld on tabs for body mounts. I won't know until I get the old one off and start to fab the new one.

 

I can't wait to see pictures I like your idea of sandwiching the frame...with the early CJ5 frame, I don't think overkill is ever a problem.

 

All finished

 

Very nice, Ryan. I was thinking of also using a bolt to fasten it. Is there a reason you put the tie down going down instead of to the front?

BTW, I got around to starting mine last weekend. Removing the rear crossmember and V-brace was a pain. The crossmember was riveted AND welded on top of the frame. Me and the torch won, of course, but not without a minor forearm burn and a bit of grumbling. I hate it when that happens.

 

No reason in particular for putting the tie down "down" The design just came to me as an easy way to build it with the material I had.

 

I'm not sure there's a "correct" way to do it, but I thought the bolt was way better than buying a clasp for it. I'll have to think about which was -- horizontal or vertical -- is less likely to work loose.

 

When I was trying to decide, I fugured the weight of the swinging assembly could "rest on the horizontal plate VS having it verticle where there would be shear on the bolt. I decided on the bolt cause $2 was a lot cheaper than a $50 destaco clampR)

 

So, we've agreed on the cost of the clamp.

Has anyone on here had experience with either a horizontal or vertical bolt holding a swinging assembly like this? What is more prone to breakage? (The risk in this question is that you've already finished yours. I'm just starting mine. R) )

 

That's where I am right now I have some destaco clamps but am wondering if a latch that is that easy would get opened by people walking by. If I design a lock for the destaco clamp would it defeat the simplicity of the clamp? Here is where I am and some pics, of how I mounted the toe bar to the carrier. It is nice having so many people solving the same problem at the same time.

 

I thought the destaco clamps had a padlock hole in the bracket. Maybe not. I've only seen pictures of them.

I hadn't really thought about security for the swingout because it's the stuff attached to the swingout I'm concerned with. I guess if someone REALLY wanted to steal everything, all they'd have to do would be to pop the dust cover and undo the axle nut, at least on the design I'm headed toward. I mean, if they wanted it THAT badly, it isn't that much more of a step to steal the whole damn Jeep. R)

So, now that I'm thinking about it, if I continue with putting the hold down bolt horizontal, it is possible to just drill the right-sized hole for a padlock. Of course, you could do that for the vertical, as well, with a few extra tabs. Either way, it's just another key to loose. R)

Nice idea on the tow bar mount, BTW.

 

It is not the theft of things as mush as if my son has it at school and someone unlatches it how many things will the tire swing into before he notices it. Just trying to think everything though. or maybe over think? The destaco clamps I have don't have lock holes.

 

Good point on securing the thing as opposed to thinking about the "security" of it. When I get a chance, I'll look for the photos of the clamp with the lock holes.

 

These are the clamps I have. I was thinking of using the one on the lower right with the rod that slides in and out. I think the rattle factor will come into play unless I can put some kind of rubber grommet into the hole. The others I'm still trying to figure out a way to use. Now after reading others suggestions the bolt with a T might be the best way go . Still trying to figure it out so any suggestions will be helpful.