225 oil pump

i currently have my 225 torn down and starting to reassemble. engine had sat for a while but had very little wear on it. my problem is that the screws holding in the cover over the oil pump gears and shafts are stuck in there. i've heated them and broke off very large screwdrivers. won't budge can i put it back together without changing them? do i have to prime it still? i'm concerned that from degreasing and cleaning the area that i got water or something inside it. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not suppose to be slotted screws, they should be hex head bolts.

 

hhhmm.... yea, i got slotted screws for some reason. if and when i do get them out, they will be replaced with hex.

 

:?
everyone I've ever seen has been slotted screws, including mine, stock 1966.
even the NOS oil pump kit has new slotted head screws in it..
don't matter I suppose, whatever works
hex might be easier to remove in this case

 

Hmmm, learned something new. All of them I have seen were hex head. 1/4-5/16" head I think. The hi-volume rebuild kit even came with the longer hex head bolts, no slots in them.

 

I will be doing high volume replacement on mine in couple days bit mine has slotted screws only (not to say orig) and I havn't been into it and have had jeep since mid 70's. maybe had more work on it than thought altho only has 63k on her.

 

High volume oil pumps should only be used on race engines that have a lot of clearance back in the day when I started building cars it was common to add them to any hipo rebuild. But I also would not reuse a old pump if the pump is worn is will pump less at low RPMs when you need the most lube.

 

I broke one off during my overhaul. I removed the cover of the oil pump, used some vise grips on the remaining headless bolt and turned it out. My heart raced the whole time as I chanted, "Come on...don't strip."

 

When I sent my parts in for machining I sent everything to get hot tanked. My machinist went ahead and got all my stuck bolts out( a total of 3 one in the oil pump one in the manifold for the carb and one for the t-stat housing) cost me a total of 10 bucks for the additional work. Very much worth the 10 dollars in my opinion. My bolts were 5/16 hex head no slot.

 

Thanks Sparky on no high v pump. Just thought it good idea since I was there. Sometimes bigger and stronger is not better... Ran into other problems inside timing cover but it for another thread. Tnx.

 

if you get the Mellings pump rebuild kit, make sure to read the instructions. It comes with several springs as I remember for different applications. If you put the wrong relief spring in, you may end up with a result you did not want.

 

since I installed the hi vol pump, the distributer no longer advaces itself. I also used the lowest springs (50psi).

 

I'm going to be the dissenting voice here. The high volume pump moves more oil at a specific RPM. This doesn't cause excessive pressure, since that is controlled by the bypass spring. While you will see no real advantage in daily use, it does have it's advantages. One of the 225's greatest assets is it's low RPM torque. I know I have idled over some obstacles where the tach needle has literally bounces off the rest peg. At very low RPM's the stock oil pump volume can fall below what is needed to maintain good pressure(the bypass closes and the pump pushes directly into the passages). This is where a high volume pump is better. It can push more volume which will equate to more pressure(until the bypass valve opens)way down low. I have had good luck with the Melling high volume pump and have run one in my Jeep for over fifteen years with no problems whatsoever.

Distributer advance won't be effected by the oil pump. Not meaning to get off topic here, but the dist has two advance systems. Mechanical and vacuum. Might check to see if the weights are working properly and the advance mechanism isn't frozen. If you'll kick up a thread, I'm sure folks would be happy to help resolve the problem.

 

On the high volume oil pump. Why would you NOT run one? Buick motors are notorious for marginal oiling from way back in the early days. V-8's V-6's all of them. I have one in my wag 350 also. There is a noticeable improvement in oil pressure even at idle. I've had my CJ 25 years this November. 22 of those years I've run a HVP kit. I have never seen anything but improvement from it.
A HVP kit is the first thing I ever do to a buick motor. Second is a roller timing chain. If the HVP kit is set up correctly which is not difficult there are no issues. Not to come out of left field with this reply, but I think it would be a disservice to not do it. Just my .000002 cents worth.

 

No. the distrib itself was turning, creating upwards of 50* (had 90* once) advanced timing. Since I installed the hivol pump, the distrib stays put.

make sure you use the correct torque on the bolts (and some neverseize so you can remove them later).