BT3-C Floor

Well, the time is fast approaching when I will finally be able to get back to my BT3-C project! I know about MD Juan and Jeepanels Plus, but am curious if anyone has considered (priced) having a local shop make a floor that includes the rolled in ribs. At over $400 with shipping, I owe it to my Jeep Fund to at least consider it. I have considered a flat piece of 18 gauge without the ribs, but am not that cheap...R) (besides, the ribs add strength) Although I'm not restoring it, I am trying not to stray too far off the stock path. Thanks in advance for any input!!

 

What about making your own out of an old pickup bed?

 

I made mine out a nice piece of marine grade plywood. Stain it/rub in, olive drab paint for that military look. My other trailer I just oiled the ply floor.

 

Mike, why would that be?

 

The Spen trailer is rate 3/4 ton, which is 1/4 ton higher than the Bantam, and it's floor is all flat. I don't know the gauge of the steel though, Bill

 

My WWII willys trailer had the floor replaced when I bought it, using flat steel. I've hauled quite a bit of junk and no complaints.

The bed of my 416 was swiss cheese when I got it, literally more gone than there. I completely sandblasted the frame, replaced a front crossmember, and went with a 3/4" plywood floor. When it comes to hauling engines, axles, or anything heavy I grab the 416, it's just easier to load. I installed some good tie down points. Trust me, I realize the urge to do a complete restoration, but I love the usefullness (is that a word?) of my little flatbed. And compare the cost of a bed with a sheet of plywood...

 

Thanks Greg. I am now leaning towards using a flat piece of sheetmetal, since restoration accuracy is not a concern. I'm trying to locate a shop that will make the bends at the edges, I'm thinking 16g metal should be sufficient. Also, similar to the M-416, I'm going to make the entire tub/ floor assy removable...

 

Back when it was first done, it now has early CJ 16" wheels and looks a little weathered.
Oh yeah, and it now has NOS fenders on it...since the bed fills in the "back" of the fender, I had to cut out backs and bolt them to the frame...I came across some pretty darn thick stainless sheet at the metal bin in the motor pool at work and used that for the back. Since the fenders only mount to the frame at one point front and rear, the thick stainless plates, attached to the frame, and to the fender at it's other mount points, stiffens the fenders up well and fills in the hole.

 

Here we go...

 

16 ga. flat steel for the floor will probably warp or wave with use. Unless your floor is totally gone, you might be better off patching the bad spots. Jeep Panels Plus will sell you patch pieces if you don't need the entire floor.

If your floor is totally gone, my suggestion would be a piece of diamondplate. Rather than welding the floor in, you could spot weld or bolt angle iron around the inside perimeter of the tub and then bolt the diamond plate floor to the angle iron and cross members (using pieces of flat stock the same thickness as the angle iron as shims between the crossmembers and the diamondplate). That way, if the floor gets ruined in the future, you can simply unbolt the old floor and replace.

Just a thought.