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Rebuilt engine, now to make it run...

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by jalbrecht55, Apr 11, 2007.

  1. Apr 12, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    Jan 7, 2007
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    1,524
    set them by the manual and be done with it,not 100% for sure but think mine has the clearance cast into the head
     
  2. Apr 15, 2007
    jalbrecht55

    jalbrecht55 Member

    State College,...
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2006
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    60
    Well, here's what I've got for numbers.

    Book value (old Willys-Overland repair manual and Moses Ludel) = .016/.016 cold.

    My head (GPW head) says .014/.014 cold

    Cam card says .010/.012 I/E HOT

    Someone mentioned that on a new engine you should go a little loose vs a little tight. Good catch, checking my notes I actually did go a little loose. I set them at .017 initially.

    Rechecking after cam break in they varied from .016 (on most) to .017 on a couple and .018 on one.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,596
    You always want to err toward a little loose - that way you're sure that the valves will close completely even when the engine is hot.
     
  4. Apr 16, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    Jul 7, 2006
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    637
    I rebuilt my L4 134 this winter so a couple of things come to mind. Keep in mind there are 2 TDC, compression and exhaust. This has messed me up so it can happen. There is an article on the 3B page on static timing the engine in the tech section, I was able go get the timing spot on using this advice. I dont think you could be 180 off if it started even if only for a short time.
    My gasket kit came with a fairly thick fiber gasket and I used a spray gasket sealer with copper fibers suspended. It went on almost like rattle can spray paint. When I torqued the head I broght it up in 3 stages, snug, 60 foot pounds and 70 foot pounds. Your leaking stud you may try several wraps of teflon tape and or replacing the stud, there may be wear on the studs threads.
     
  5. Apr 18, 2007
    jalbrecht55

    jalbrecht55 Member

    State College,...
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    Dec 16, 2006
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    So the way I undestand it, if you set them too loose, they'll rattle and you'll beat up the valve tips/adjusters, too tight you'll burn your valves... but how do you know (before you've done the damage) that it's right? I compromised on the above numbers and set it at .014 cold. I was going to get it nice and warmed up again one of these days and see what that works out to warm/hot.

    ....It's certainly easier to do it now then once I put the body back on....
     
  6. Apr 18, 2007
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    per my 1955 chilton's1941 thru1948 valves set @ .014,temp not specified,1949 cj-3a @.016 1950-1@ .012 intake and exaust set the same per the book,on my L-4 casting says .014 intake,.014 exaust<cold> well if you get them too tight it should start to miss a little when it gets warmed up,too loose you should be able to hear them
     
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