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ignition problems

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ilovemyjeep, Feb 28, 2007.

  1. Feb 28, 2007
    ilovemyjeep

    ilovemyjeep 1971 CJ-5 w/ Dauntless V6

    Atlanta, Georgia
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2005
    Messages:
    74
    OK jeep got to where it wouldn't crank up so I replaced to coil, condenser, rotor, and put in a new set of points. the points gap is set to 0.016 and it will turn over but will not crank. i'm not very good with electrical stuff but it seems like it is shorting out at the points / in the distributor. i used my volt meter and when juice is applied to the points the distributor itself is hot... then i was looking at my distributor diagram and i saw a "ground wire" in the distributor.. but i cannot find this... could this be the problem? if so what should it be grounded to? itself? argh. tia
     
    ilovemyjeep, Feb 28, 2007
    #1
  2. Feb 28, 2007
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,221
    You didn't say, I'm guessing no spark across the points?

    Start by making sure that the wire isn't grounding out where it comes into the distributor body. Also make sure the points are grounding out somewhere that they shouldn't be. The connection between the points and the screw on the side where the wire comes in could be grounding out if you didn't get it insulated properly.

    Don't know how to be much more specific, haven't spent as much time in a Delco as the F-head distributors. ;)
     
    sparky, Feb 28, 2007
    #2
  3. Feb 28, 2007
    ilovemyjeep

    ilovemyjeep 1971 CJ-5 w/ Dauntless V6

    Atlanta, Georgia
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2005
    Messages:
    74
    yeah before i replaced the points/coil it was grounding out through the points... now there is spark just across the points (while i have the dist. cap off) and it sounds like its turning over fine.. but once i put the cap back on and try and crank it it will turn over a few times then it skips (as if its grounding out) also the grommet in the dist. is fine as is the wire... thanks
     
    ilovemyjeep, Feb 28, 2007
    #3
  4. Feb 28, 2007
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    I'm kinda cornfused by your first post. Your hot (+) wire should go to the coil (+) terminal, and the coil (-) terminal should be connected to the points.

    When you turn the ignition switch on, you should have either ~8-9 volts at the coil (+) terminal (ballast resistor vehicle) or ~12-13 volts at the coil (+) terminal (coil with internal resistor).

    If you have a (+) voltage as described above at the coil (+) terminal, hold the VOM on the coil (+) terminal and have a friend turn the key to "start" and see what the voltage is at the coil when cranking. If it goes to zero, you have your culprit, and you need to see why .

    Some vehicles have two sources of coil voltage; one supplies a "running" voltage of only 8-9 volts to the ignition while running supplies a straight 12 volts to the ignition when cranking, so the engine will start more easily. This depends upon whether an external ballast resistor is used or not. If there is an external ballast resistor, there should be an additional wire running from the starter solenoid to the coil (+) terminal that is only "hot" when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.

    Inside the distributor, there should be a wire that connects from the points to the (-) side of the coil, and also a wire that runs from the points to the condensor inside the distributor. Make sure these wires aren't pinched by the cap, or anything else.

    HTH, please post if you need clarification or other help! ;)
     
    w3srl, Feb 28, 2007
    #4
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