replace oil seals

I need to replace oil seals in a '55 (?) chassis, model 18 transfer case front and rear output shafts, model 44 rear axle and model 25 front axle input shafts. My Chilton manual shows special tools (I assume Kaiser-Willys) used to remove the pinion shaft couplers and seals, as well as a similar tool to install the new seals. I've never pulled or replaced ANY drive line seals before. Current seal removers / installers do not resemble what is shown in the manual. My question: can this be done using current pullers / installers, and most important HOW?

 

i just did a friends 53, same as my 55, and i just used a regular seal puller and then lined up the seals and gently tapped them in. thats for the front and rear pinion seals and transfer case seals. now for the front axle seals it a real pain to get them in, there inside the diff. the rear axle seals require you to remove the rear hubs, at least its easier that way.

 

I have recently replaced all of the seals you mentioned and used a standard seal puller on most. I did use a slide hammer with a seal pulling adapter for the rear axle seals. To install new seals I used a large socket as a driver and lightly tapped the new seals into place.

 

As the late great Vernco web site said, Get the Vernco 5000 which translates into a piece of 2" pvc pipe. Works great for installing the seals. Use some #2 Permatex around the outside of the seal for extra insurance against leaks.

 

This thread was very timely for me, as I too am replacing seals, and bearings on the front and rear axles.

Is that #2 Permatex some kind of silicone sealant?

 

Thanks to all. I shall proceed, confidant that I'm not the first to try this.
Clyde

 

#2 Permatex is the non-hardening black gooey stuff. I think it works better in this application. Put some RTV on the splines before you put the yokes back on to seal. They leak there also.

 

But before you put it all back together, check out the area on the yokes where the seals ride and make sure that they are not grooved/pitted. If it is, your new seal will be toast in a hurry. And make sure that everything is CLEAN before reassembly.

Permatex #2 is the stuff!!!

 

OK, things are moving along now. But, my Jeep manual says that on reassembling, I need to put 210 ft-lbs torque on the nut that holds the pinion yoke to the pinion shaft. I don't even weigh 210# - is that torque value right, or do I need that 6 ft. pipe standing in the corner?

 

I just pry them out with a screwdriver or something, and tap them gently back in with a hammer, or something that fits the seal. Never worried about any special tools, although I am sure they are easier.

 

i just use a impact gun. haven't had any problems yet.