SOA guys

What size tires you running? Do they rub? Stock yj springs or something else? Do they have more up or down travel or are they about even? Thanks

 

I have incredible wheel travel, but I also have scout/wrangler width axles. I also kept my springs under the frame, which really increases articulation. My front springs are a wrangler pack that I added a leaf to, and my rear springs are off the front of a CJ-7 (same width) and I added a spring to it. My rears have a little more arch and height. Longer shackles also greatly increased articulation. I have a lot of up and down travel, not sure of the ratio. Both my front and rears come up and hit the fenders with 35's.

I would not recommend stock wrangler springs unless you had some extra springs laying around to increase their beef a little. SOA is really hard on springs. I might have tried 1.5" wrangler springs.

To do it all right it is a lot of work, I am extremely happy with my result as my jeep is more stable now than it was before. The steering is also better than it was before. However, I do not think It would have been a good mod had I not lengthened the wheelbase and widened the axles; or at least widened the axles.

 

Depends on how heavy the vehicle is. If they are on a heavier than normal YJ they will compress more at ride height, and have more droop resulting.

I understand the axle stuff, I was just trying to find out what tire sizes seem to work well...reason being that a 2.5" lift on these CJ can run 34s. So does that mean a 5" lift can 38s? Not that I'm planning on it, but I was wanting to see what size tire filled the wheel well out nicely and fit without much/any scrubbing.

Did the pass spring not interfere with the front diff, keeping the springs at the stock frame width?

 

Jason,
I swapped in a high pinion 44 from a ford pick-up. I moved the pumpkin to the passenger side, and in the process made both axle shafts the exact length I wanted, keeping the springs under the frame rails. Most people only want to cut down one side when they swap to save money. It only cost about $85.00 to cut down an axle shaft. So I think it was worth it.

 

Ohhh I guess when I read you had scout width axles I assumed you had scout axles Did you re-tube the housing or have someone do it?

 

Rear scout only. On the front (Ford) I did not pull the tubes, I just removed both knuckles, then cut the long side down to the correct short length, and welded a knuckle back on, setting the correct caster. On the side that needed to be lengthened, I had enough of the piece that I cut off from the other side to add to it to get the correct length. I bought a section of heavy tubing that I could press (hammer) into the ID of the original tube about 6 inches and then left about 6 inches sticking out to press (hammer) the added section onto. I left a small gap between them so when I welded the splice together I was welding all 3 pieces. It was a super strong splice, you can not tell where I did it, and I didn't risk damage to my pumpkins by pulling the tubes out. I used a 3/4 ton HP-44. I am not sure you can do it with a 1/2 ton 44 because the tubes are smaller and there may not be enough room inside for the splice tubing.
It was a really simple modification to the axle housing, but you do need a decent welder. The high pinion really gets that front driveshaft up and out of the way!