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mojave heater

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by springerfever, Dec 12, 2006.

  1. Dec 12, 2006
    springerfever

    springerfever Member

    suwanee, ga
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
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    273
    Just received the heater and plenum from Summit this afternoon. Looking for ideas and tips on installation, with primary desire to drill as little as possible and keep 75 CJ5 stock.

    The Mojave will be an additional heater and stock heater will remain functional. This means the mojave ain't gonna fit under the dash. My #1 location is under the drivers seat bolted to the floor. Wiring would run through the loom at the door threshold to a relay and switch close to the fuse box.

    I plan to use primarily copper tubing to run from the heater to the original heater core inlet/outlets under the battery. Short lengths of 5/8 heater hose would be used to connect the pipe to the heater core fittings.

    Anyone see any pitfalls in this plan or a better location for the heater itself ?
     
  2. Dec 12, 2006
    SwampRatt

    SwampRatt 1973 CJ-5

    Naperville, Illinois
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    Sep 15, 2006
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    109
    You are going to be toasty!
    Is it going to blow out at your feet? They are hot.
     
  3. Dec 12, 2006
    karlvin08

    karlvin08 I R SMRT

    Clarksville, TN
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2006
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    It sounds like you have a good plan. I think you will be fine pointing it straight forward as the plenum has closable vents on it. Since it doesn't sound like you will be hooking up the defroster to the side vent you could still attach a tube so your passenger can adjust the heat direction, or if you get a really cold day you can put the hose inside your jacket and keep yourself really toasty.
     
  4. Dec 13, 2006
    High5

    High5 Member

    Urbandale, IA
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    Jan 13, 2005
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    802
    Why not just pull the stocker out and replace with the Mojave??? Seems overkill to me. From what I have seen the Mojave is more than capable to heat the entire Jeep. Plus, I would think you could tuck it up under the dash much better than the stock piece. I plan on doing this, well, I planned on doing this before this winterR) But, it hasn't happened. I sure would like to hear how great it is after you get it done.

    Good luck
     
  5. Dec 13, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
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    I too ordered this heater from Summit. With free shipping I couldn't resist. Well, actually I got the sumit one that was 30 bucks less and seemed to have more of an output. My stock heater is missing parts and rather then going through it, fixing it and rewiring it, I plan on pulling the entire unit out. This should free up alot of space too. I was gonna put it under the dash blowing on the passengers knees, or maybe centered. Should be here today or tomorrow.
     
  6. Dec 13, 2006
    jeep4x4greg

    jeep4x4greg Member

    Central IL
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2006
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    117
    kinda O/T.....is it possible to set up the mojave to pull air from outside, or does it just recirculate the inside air?

    not that it matters with all the non-engineered ventilations that comes standard on jeeps (drafty tops and door seals!)

    just curious :)



    with the reviews this thing gets i may replace the factory heater in my jeep with one of these when i get to that point!
     
  7. Dec 13, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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  8. Dec 13, 2006
    GPin

    GPin Member

    Spokane, Washington
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    Jul 31, 2006
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    What is the reason for full lenght copper tubing? I am a little more lazy and would just run standard heater hose. I have noticed that todays hose seems alot better than the hose you used to buy 15 years ago.
    The heater sounds awesome, you should be able to wear your flip flops in January! Make sure you post your results, many of us would like to hear how it goes, pics would be a bonus.
     
  9. Dec 13, 2006
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
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    Boyink, the heater looks exactly like that.
     
  10. Dec 13, 2006
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
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    Oct 8, 2003
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    654
    I wouldn't use the copper tubing for the same reason not to for a fuel line, it will crack from the vibration over time and leave you stranded or worse yet cause engine failure. I would use heater hose or some of that braided stuff from Summit if they carry it. Just my $.02
     
  11. Dec 13, 2006
    springerfever

    springerfever Member

    suwanee, ga
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
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    Boyink....thats an awesome location, but I wasn't planning on removing the entire dash ! I'm sure you have measured clearance a couple of times , but are you positive you will have room for all your gauges, etc?
    If I remember correctly, you've done a re-design on your dash and have probably made allowances for the heater. I would like to leave mine original. Are you planning on having outboard vents? That would be so cool (actually HOT) !!

    Willysnut....appreciate the feedback. I had not considered that the copper lines might crack from vibration. The regular heater hose would sure be a lot easier and cost less but I have a couple of 90 degree turns to make and I didnt want a kink to form. I suppose I could use 90 degree elbows at the turns with hose clamps, unless someone has a better idea..

    Thanks for all the replies. This little project will be tackled this weekend and I will plan on posting some pictures.

    .
     
  12. Dec 13, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    From Wikipedia: Some materials (e.g., some steel and titanium alloys) exhibit an endurance limit or fatigue limit, a limit below which repeated stress does not induce failure, theoretically, for an infinite number of cycles of load. Most other non-ferrous metals (e.g., aluminium and copper alloys) exhibit no such limit and even small stresses will eventually cause failure.

    Steel is a much better structural material than aluminum or copper.
     
  13. Dec 13, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    The heater install is what started this whole project since the PO had put gauges where the defroster duct had to run. So yes, I measured. Lots. ;)

    Defroster Duct Clearance:
    [​IMG]

    Gauge Clearance (the square hole in front of the duct is for a switch panel, should be enough depth:
    [​IMG]

    Dash Design - black circles at the ends are the output ducts:
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Dec 13, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    The ones it came with...;)

    They're pretty much like the ones one the left:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Dec 13, 2006
    springerfever

    springerfever Member

    suwanee, ga
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    Boyink........can't wait to see that baby finished. One great looking dash.

    I like your vent arrangement, very functional. By merely closing both left and right that will automatically direct all airflow to the defroster. Should be more than enough output. Once the windshield is clear, warm air can be channeled in any direction via the vents...side windows, floor, straight back to the rear.

    These types of heaters have no temperature adjustments (no blending hot/cold air), just blower speeds. Once the cabin is warm, I think low speed will be adequate in most conditions.

    I'm still mulling it over, but in my application, the 5/8" heater hose routing is looking better all the time. Anyone used springs inside of hoses at bends to keep them from kinking? I know some radiator hoses are manufactured that way.
     
  16. Dec 14, 2006
    trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    North Idaho USA
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    That sleeve idea sounds good, better than spring that will break down over time:) The less elbows and clamps the better.

    I had no idea they were that small thanks for the pics!!

    Anybody have a pic of the 3b defroster installed.
    Wounder if it could hookup to one of those?
     
  17. Dec 14, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I'm considering using a remote-controlled water valve to control how much flow of coolant goes to the heater. My old underseat Scout heater used this approach and it worked well to control temperature output. IIRC someone said there was an early 70's Ford truck valve that was cable-controlled.

    Of course, I didn't plan for it with the dash layout...:rofl: :cry:
     
  18. Dec 17, 2006
    springerfever

    springerfever Member

    suwanee, ga
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    Well, finished up the project this morning. It went remarkably smooth. Only one trip to Lowe's to pickup some 1/2 copper stock and flux.

    This baby is NICE..my factory heater could only produce 105 degrees..this baby goes up to 120 degrees ! Found a 2 1/2" vent hose at AutoZone that fit the mojave plenum perfectly and expands out 72". Manufacturer: Motormite...MightyFlow Part # 96004. I plan on keeping a small towel in it and directing the flow to the dual vents. When needed as concentrated heat, such as defrost or passengers in rear, pull the towel out, close the vents and hold on !!

    Three speed motor is quiet on postions 1 and 2 and not bad on 3 either. Much quieter than factory unit. All in all, a great upgrade and, bring on the cold weather !!
     
  19. Dec 17, 2006
    SwampRatt

    SwampRatt 1973 CJ-5

    Naperville, Illinois
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    THAT'S a CLEAN Jeep!
    You gonna be warm. :)
     
  20. Dec 17, 2006
    GPin

    GPin Member

    Spokane, Washington
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    Jul 31, 2006
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    Looks great! Nice clean install. So plumbed in series, which heater gets the heat first? Sure will be nice to put your stock heater on full defrost and use the other to heat. Did you end up going hard, copper, line to your aux. heater? Again, great install. So when is the A/C unit going in?:)
     
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