Rear gas tank CJ3B?

Hi
I woundering if there is a replacement gas tank from say maybe a cj5 or postal jeep that would fit under my 3B. I dont like the idea of it under my seat.
My jeep is a complete frame off retro restore and the stock one is shot anyway.

Thxs
Rick

 

You might look into using a fuel cell if nothing else is available.

 

15 gal tank from an early CJ-5 should work... i've been looking into this myself since my tank is very small and is strapped into the rear of the jeep rather than underneath.

 

Mmm, maybe. The frame is shorter on a flattie, and there may not be room for a CJ-5 under-floor tank. Somebody here should know, but if all else fails, don't assume - measure!

 

sorry Tim.. i should have been more specific.. i have in fact measured it and it will fit. the reason i said "should" is that i have not yet done it.

 

I tried it on 3b with a stock rear CJ5/CJ7 rear tank and stock skid pan and found that if I was stock it would work but with a SPOA and the rear axle moved back 2 1/2" the rear axle would hit. Keep this in mind if you do any modification. Looks like a fuel cell for now!

 

Re: Rear gas tank CJ3B?And more???

Thanks everyone.

As I mentioned it is completly apart right now.

I have most of my major parts assembled now and have started to rebuild stuff.
I have a 53 3b I drove 1000 miles to get in placerville ca.
It came with a t90 with a SBC adaptor, d18, original axels25,44. , complete orignal body and frame. 0riginal radiator good shape. No motor, no steering ,and SBC motor mounts.
No seriuos rust still had original paint on bottom of tub..

I went way out of my way to get a 3b for me it is the jeep.

I might be able to just restore it with a non matching motor.

But I need to tinker. I want 33's. mild lift, proable YJ spring Axel under.
Want to use a v6 or maybe a 4cyl. real brakes.ect. No body mods, try to keep it resonably stock looking.

So far I have a bunch of xtra parts to chose from.

Narrow dana30 front end with cj7 brakes 4.10s
Camaro tilt colum, wrong pws box.
Turbo350 kcase rebuit.
Sm420 no visible wear in geartrain.
Complete skyhawk with 231 running condition. Auto car.
Complete 4.3 vortec ready to rebuild w. TBI.

So it seems I could build a auto with the 231, or a manule with the 4.3 vortec.

Any thoughts.

I would like to mention that I wont ruin the abilty for someone to restore this down the road.

Rick in Idaho.

 

4.3 manual gets my vote! But I am partial!

2.5" lift and 1" lift shackles should give you enough room to run 33's SUA and go with the D30 just get a Detroit

 

I am a chevy guy sooo. 4.3 is such a good choice I think just stock rebuild should be fine. I am getting the lock right for the front and leaning toward welding the rear for now. Also have a complete set of 11inchers for the back.

 

Lock right rear weld front in my opinion. You can always unlock the hubs. Welded rear will be hard work on the hard turns.

 

Weld the rear or the front it depends on your opinion. I like a spool or welded rear because I can predict it alot better than a locker on street driving. Had a lock-rite rachet in the middle of a curve at 35 mph when wet and almost lost it. Short wheelbase is not forgiving.

 

Part of my reasoning is $$$.

But my rear axel is a early 44 so with fewer splines my options for now are limited. I dont know of anyone making spools or lockers for it.

I have a detroit in my fullsize chevy truck and it is somewhat unpreditable. Meaning it will lock and unlock at wierd times

Even with the long wheelbase it steps out unxpectedly

I dont drive it more than I have to on snow and ice.

I had a early scout with lincoln lockers front and back and it was miserable too turn, replaced the front with limited slip and it was ok on dirt.

So a locks -rite seems like a good idea for front 30 and later after its built switch the rear out for a full floater with an OX lock setup.

I am keeping the offset 18 T case so I will have to get axles made for the 44 rear.

 

arb makes a 19 spline unit (just change the axle shafts and spider gears).

 

Hey thanks didnt see that before .
Seems like alot of $$$ though

I think I will weld her up and see how it goes.
I am 8 mins from trailhead to house.
So it should be fine.
Will hopfully trailer to go fruther camping trips and such.
If it was a DD I would have to do something else.

 

Powertrax lists the lock-right for 10 and 19 spline on their website

Model 2415 for the 10 spline They're on E-bay now and then

 

Thread is about battery box relocation but as you read you'll see info on rear tank.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35269

 

Thanks for the thread I read it and looked at his photo bucket yesterday.

I have to say that is one clean flatfender. :drool:

Funny thing is I live just over the boarder from him maybe I'll get to look it over in person sometime.
Like that gastank skid plate too.