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Power steering kit for an m38a1

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 53m38a1, Oct 26, 2006.

  1. Oct 26, 2006
    53m38a1

    53m38a1 New Member

    Charleston, SC
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2006
    Messages:
    31
    I was searching the old threads on power steering and came across this link. Does anyone have experience with installing one of these? Are there any tricks to installing it on an m38a1? Are there any recommendations for or against?


    http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id83.htm
     
  2. Oct 26, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    I'm not positive but I thought Herms kit didn't work with the 4 cylinder engine.
     
  3. Oct 26, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Mike is correct, the engine mounting plate on the L- and F-head engines is in the way of the reverse saginaw swap. The more conventional front-mounted saginaw swap is a piece of cake... ;)
     
  4. Oct 26, 2006
    53m38a1

    53m38a1 New Member

    Charleston, SC
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2006
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    Is there a good link for the more conventional kits anywhere?
     
  5. Oct 26, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    [​IMG]If you really want a full kit, then Advance Adapters has them listed in their catalog. They are rather $pendy though at about $700! Most of the folks on here that have done saggy conversions have done it themselves for much, much less. It is a really straightforward job, but it does require some welding and fabricating skills. If you can find a cast steering box mount from a 67-71 Commando, it will save you a LOT of work, and it will work with either a 3- or a 4- bolt saggy box, manual or power. A steering column out of a postal jeep will also allow you to retain the stock "schoolbus" steering wheel while using a custom connecting shaft from the column to the front-mounted box. Also, avoid the use of the OEM "rag-joint" and go with u-joints in the connecting shaft assembly. They both fit better and last longer. I also re-used my stock tie-rod ends, and used Herm's tie rod tubes to complete my conversion without having to find a two-holed steering knuckle for the passenger side. Works like a dream![​IMG]
     
  6. Oct 26, 2006
    53m38a1

    53m38a1 New Member

    Charleston, SC
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2006
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    Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
     
  7. Oct 26, 2006
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    Mar 30, 2004
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    1,745
    This is something I've worked on trying to make work. I was just about to start on my 62 model A1 and someone talked me out of it. I know it's been done. I've seen pictures but not ever been able talk to anyone that has done it. I have converted several of my others I have owned each time I did it a little different. But I haven't tackled it on my A1 yet but am still planning:rofl: here are some pics I've saved on some I have seen pics of. If I could find a govenor mounting bracket I think that it would circumvent some of my fabricating chores. hth
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2007
  8. Oct 26, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    If I could get a hold of an f-head in a running jeep I could fabricate one and save the pattern. I have access to a L-head but not an f-head.
     
  9. Oct 26, 2006
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Dec 24, 2004
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    618
  10. Oct 27, 2006
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
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    1,745
    Not sure Mike, and I have both if I can get to them to measure but aren't the two going to share bolt spacing for mounts pretty close to the same. Maybe just difference for valve cover for F head?
     
  11. Oct 27, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    I really don't know as I've never worked on an f-head motor.
     
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