'57 CJ5 clutch change

My CJ5 needed a new friction plate for the clutch, so I decided now was better than never to crack it open and change everything out.

As suggested by all the fine forum users here, I took out the motor (F-134), and ended up also removing the front clip and radiator to make it easier to maneuver around. First off, thank everyone who suggested this.. It's definetly much easier than crawling up under the jeep trying to slide the tranny and t-case back.

I pulled the pressure plate off, took off the old friction plate (which looked like hell) and started inspecting the flywheel. First thing I noticed were some fine cracks on the wheel, I guess from driving it around with a bad friction plate for a while and having everything heat up.

I'm getting another flywheel machined to replace this one, so I should be fine in that respect.

Would I need to replace the pressure plate as well? It seems decent, so cracks on the milled surface or anything.

Also, could someone explain how the clutch linkage works on one of these old 5's? I removed everything and labeled it, but I'm not sure what some of the linkage does. For instance, there was this "cable" stud like thing running through the bell-housing bolt hole on the driver's side of the bellhousing. What's that?

Also, if anyone has any good tips on getting this motor back in and lineing everything up, I'd be more than happy to hear 'em!

Sorry for the long post!

Thanks,
Evan

 

Do a search here for "engine stay cable".

 

Great! Thanks a lot, that's definetly it. Seems like an interesting way to help prevent engine wrap.

 

BTW, I need one of those for a '56 F-head/T90, if anybody has an extra layin' around stinkin' up the joint.....

 

I've seen small cracks on the surface of a lot of the flywheels I've pulled...a re-surface removes them. Never had any cracks so deep they didn't get removed by having it turned. I think it's pretty common just from age/use. If it was my rig I'd replace the whole setup...new pressure plate, disk, clean up the flywheel and put in a new throwout bearing. The parts aren't cheap, but they're not *that* expensive either...and it's a lot easier to do it now while it's all apart. If the clutch disk is worn out, the rest of it probably isn't too far behind. It also gives everything a chance to break in together. And when you go to get it back in, you might try having someone who could turn the input shaft of the tranny while you try to wiggle the engine back on. You might pull the rear drive shaft, and just have them turn the output flange while it's in 2WD. If you can't get a helper, just reach under there and turn it a little at a time, go wiggle the motor, turn it a little more, etc. until it lines up. That's usually the only hard part about getting it back in.

 

Thanks! Yeah, I think I'll probably end up going the route of replacing everything while it's out.

That's good to know about the flywheel. I thought it was shot when I saw those cracks.

 

Yeah cracks are not uncommon at all. Just keep in mind that flywheels have minimum specs just like brake rotors. You can only cut so much off before it's junk. So if it's been resurfaced a couple times already you may not be able to resurface it again.

 

Getting the flywheel face too hot can cause surface-hardening of the metal, not good. Resurfacing will remove that, it's usually not very deep. I'd look for a shop that can use a surface-grinder on it.

 

I've got a machine shop here in Leesburg, VA that can do it for $48... does that sound fair?

 

Yeh not bad of a price. That includes materials?

 

I'd pay that.

 

You by any chance have any pictures of the placement of the stay cable and where it attaches to inside the bell housing? I'm there now and am stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a '57 CJ5. -G