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Quick Release-Type Floor Bolts

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by BlueComet, Sep 20, 2006.

  1. Sep 20, 2006
    BlueComet

    BlueComet 1962 JEEP CJ-5

    Montrose, Colorado
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    204
    Recently I added a Warn overdrive to my JEEP, and removed the transmission hump around the shifters. My model came stock with the T98, and has an unusually large transmission hump and related metalwork; it is the original stuff. The holes in the top sheets of metal are rather large - about the size of dimes. The metal under that has caged nuts on the underside.

    Having this stuff apart is very handy - I can access the rear of the motor, accelerator linkage, transfer case linkages, coil, etc. I wish I could come up with an easier way to disassemble it to clean or inspect things. Could studs be run into the boxed nuts, and then attached with some kind of low-profile fastener on the top? I'd like something that is functional, without ruining the stock look. The PO had mismatched bolts and multiple washers to accomodate those large holes. It looked sloppy.

    It is the low-profile fastener idea that has me stuck. This metal extends out to where it will be under foot. Wing nuts, for example, would not be practical.
     
  2. Sep 20, 2006
    63CJ5UNIVERSAL

    63CJ5UNIVERSAL Member

    BAILEY, NC
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2003
    Messages:
    51
    How about drilling a hole through the stud and using a tiny cotter pin?
     
  3. Sep 20, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
    Messages:
    2,918
    If you were really ambitious, you could replace them all with Dzus fasteners. Those are the slotted-head screw looking thingys that hold on aircraft cowling pieces, you turn 'em a 1/4 turn and they release. The "screw" has cam-like slots that engage a wire spring and lock down.

    http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/dzus.htm
     
  4. Sep 20, 2006
    MCSCOTT

    MCSCOTT Member

    Columbia, Tn
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2006
    Messages:
    905
    X2, seen them used alot on the race cars that my buddies have worked on in the past. Probably your best bet here.
     
  5. Sep 20, 2006
    Rampdog

    Rampdog knuckle buster

    Sandy, Oregon
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Messages:
    105
    That would be the ticket! But make sure you order the correct length for the thickness of your metal including any gasket material you put in between. Get some spares too, they sometimes break.
     
  6. Sep 20, 2006
    BlueComet

    BlueComet 1962 JEEP CJ-5

    Montrose, Colorado
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    204
    So if 'yall are familiar with the size of the holes - like dimes - are these Dzus things big enough? In other words, what's the diameter of the heads on 'em? I like what I see on the site - great suggestion Rondog! I just can't tell from the pics and descriptions what size the tops are. I'd like to avoid the PO's big washer solution.

    Rampdog mentioned a gasket. I was contemplating how to approach that too. Any ideas? These little details really make a big difference in the "quality feel" of a project; they also keep the project going for a long time!
     
  7. Sep 20, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
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    2,918
    I think they come in different sizes, you'd just have to call 'em and ask, or do some more research, I was just tossing out the idea. If you look at the picture, the "screw" part is captive in a bracket/flange thing, that mounts to the outer panel, so that should work with your "dime" holes just fine. Seems like they're about 3/8" to 1/2" diameter or so, and I think they come even larger. Been a lotta years ago.
     
  8. Sep 20, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Here ya go:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/dzus.htm

    For a watertight gasket on the floor cover, check your hardware store for rols of self-sticking weatherstripping material. The better stuff will be a rubbery material with foam inside, stay away from the stuff where you can see the foam material! You can run a srip of this stuff around the outside edge of the underside of the cover and be able to remove the cover without destroying the seal. ;)
     
  9. Sep 21, 2006
    BlueComet

    BlueComet 1962 JEEP CJ-5

    Montrose, Colorado
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    204
    I like that gasket idea too. I've never seen what you are talking about, but it sounds perfect for this job. Next time I'm at the hardware store I'll check out the weather stripping to see if they have what you described.

    I'm still mulling over the Dzus idea. I like it, but I'd be drilling a lot of holes for those rivets, and grinding off all the caged nuts. Hmmm. I'll have to think on this one awhile before I decide. I appreciate the good ideas; you guys really know your stuff.

    By the way, I wonder why the factory made those holes so big in the first place?
     
  10. Sep 21, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
    Messages:
    2,918
    Those caged nuts should just pop out, they're only clipped in. I'm not really understanding why you want to do this in the first place, you're talking about a lot of extra work. I mean, how often are you planning on taking these covers off anyway? Tain't that big of a deal to just remove the bolts is it? Once everything is hunky-dory under there, I wouldn't think you'd need to pull those covers for years. But, what do I know....
     
  11. Sep 21, 2006
    Rampdog

    Rampdog knuckle buster

    Sandy, Oregon
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Messages:
    105
    I bought a bunch of caged nuts, and the cordless drill/driver is plenty quick on taking the bolts out. Maybe when I take the tub off again, but that isn't in my plans.
    If it wasn't for large area washers, mine would fall apart!R)
     
  12. Sep 21, 2006
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2004
    Messages:
    618

    It is too bad you do not know anyone who is a maintenance test pilot that may just have access to some;) PM me

    Geesh I just reread your post. Did you say the holes are the size of dimes? There are some biguns (dzus) out there that size.

    Seems to me the backshell receptacle would be a PIA to install while the body is on the JEEP. I'm not a sheet metal guy though I just break the stuff for them to fix. It is just as easy using a cordless drill to remove that panel IMOHO.
     
  13. Sep 21, 2006
    Sledgehammer

    Sledgehammer Sure, I'll try it

    Ellery, Il
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    341
    I used the weather stripping on my tranny cover last week and it seemed to work well.
     
  14. Sep 21, 2006
    BlueComet

    BlueComet 1962 JEEP CJ-5

    Montrose, Colorado
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    204
    I'm starting to see this as a lot of extra work for a small reward. I also don't like the idea of changing something (i.e. removing the caged nuts) or drilling lots of new holes for the rivets. Perhaps I should just go the conventional route and put in some kind of bolt-style fastener and use the insulation around the edges. I've seen some very attractive fasteners that would look sharp in my application. I've got a picture of one here from Eastwood Manufacturing (boltman.com). The quick release idea was just something to consider before reassembly.
     
  15. Sep 21, 2006
    original cj5

    original cj5 They call me Mr Bubba

    Murphy, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2005
    Messages:
    200
    KIOWAMTP......Finally got it (duh). Always thought you drove a Kiowa, (before your new avatar) but never connected the MTP.

    I know it sounds kind of goofy but I always try to decode the not so obvious user names. Sort of like a dumb guys crossword puzzle. Scratch another one off the listR)
     
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