Power Steering Box Mounting ?

I am installing a saginaw power steering box on my CJ-6 frame. I have mocked it up as seen in the attached pictures. I have mounted the box about an inch higher than I have seen in the many pics in various threads I have searched. I drilled a hole through my cross member for the steering shaft to pass through. I am mounting it this way so that the lower p/s box mounting bolts go through the jeep frame for added strength. Am I on the right track with this set up or is there something that I am missing that will bite me further down the road? I want to be sure before I weld the plate to the frame.

Curt

 

hose routing ? better to go under the grille than thru it in my opinion
grille clearance ? have you put the grille in place and checked clearances ?
steering shaft ? gonna clear the motor mount/exhaust/header ?

 

I hope - will - have hoses made that will avoid grille modification (hack job). Definitely won't be cutting the grill. I have about a 1/4" of clearance between the grille bottom and the p/s box now(picture) . By installing the box higher I will avoid the factory motor mount with the steering shaft. Besides the added strength of running the lower bolts through the frame I feel this gets the box up out of the way of road obstacles.

 

I assume you have pipe/tube spacers inside the frame ?
I think you might find that the grille will flex more than that 1/4" clearance you have; it "pivots" (fenders too) on the front single rubber mount
maybe not a major concern, but don't be surprised if the grille makes contact in some situations

 

Most setups are lower than yours and still have the top bolts thru the frame instead of the bottom. The pitman arm will need a big drop with it that high up. It will also keep you from mounting a winch on the frame rails later, at least with an aftermarket style mount.
Here are pics of my setup:




Jim is also right with what he added!
Not trying to change your mind but you don't need to re-invent the wheel on this as the setup done like mine is tried and true and has been performed time and time again.
My motor mount is notched very slightly. By raising it to much you may also bind the u-joint connecting to the steering column, just depends.

 

hadn't thought about the dropped pitman arm, good point
what tie rod set-up is planned ?
double hole knuckle or TRE thru the double hole TRE ?
that angle might dictate which way to go

 

My frame horns are boxed already and was planning on C Channel or tube (hidden by the bumper) to connect the two frame rails in front. I also have a plate fabbed for the outside of the frame to strengthen the bolt mounting surface. I considered running the top p/s box mounting holes through the frame but thought it would make the box hang to low and would require notching the motor mount. I am familiar with this setup as that is how "Roman" is set up although its a manual box. I agree that body flex may be an issue. Lowering the box is not a problem - just appears that the pitman arm is hanging down kinda low.

 

I would like to find a double hole knuckle but for now it will be TRE through the TR. McRuff- Your hoses appear to be behind the behind the grille, correct? That is a plus for appearance sake. What is the bar stock that you have mounted to the top of each frame rail?

 

the mount is plenty strong
and I don't think you're "re-inventing the wheel".
you might consider just tagging in place for now until closer to completion
or.....were you the one going to powdercoat the frame?

 

I mounted my Box high also-- but pushed the box about three inches futher back. This required notching the grill. My hydroulic connections are behind the grill. I also motified the Xmenber with a hole and round gusset. I made a hole and butress so big that a U-Joint is within the Xmember--so I did not use a 'spud' extension. I did a high box because of bad experiences with a lower steering box. Back when Jeepers first used "Chevy Steering" in the early 1970s most all Jeep builders mounted the boxes were high just like this example. So what we see here is an old school designed Jeep modification.

 

I am trying to get the frame in for powder coating . I also forgot that I have a D30 all set to install ( with double knuckle & tie rods) . It is buried at the moment and I have been looking only at 27's under my other cj's for the last few days. I do like how McRuff's hoses tuck under the grille. I am going to reset it lower and moved to the rear a little and take another look at it.

Curt

 

Sredinger-
Could you post a pic of your setup if you have a chance?

Thanks

 

The plates mounted on my frame were an after thought for mounting my old tow hooks back to the frame. They were originally mounted bolted thru the frame in that location , once the saginaw was installed there was no way to mount them so I welded 1" thick pieces of steel to the frame so that I could tap the steel and bolt the tow hooks down. There sorta stuck there now as they are Tig'd in place and are not coming off.
I also built a steering brace for my box to help with flex.
Joel (Vanguard) doesn't use a spud shaft in his set up but its mounted like mine check with him for pics.

 

Here are some pics of Steering Box on 66 CJ6

This is a reconstruction of an old Ozarks Game Department CJ6-- it did years of Government service around Lake Truman in western Missouri. It had a four cylinder engine (no V6)-- So I put a 231 odd-fire inside.

Once upon a time I busted a steering box on a large Granite Boulder in a CJ3a-- so I am avoiding the problem on this Jeep by mounting the steering box very very high.



I took this box out of a 1991 Jeep waggy- There is no spud-- the stock waggy U-joint articulates within the tunnel made inside the front crossmember. This system has three u-joints.

This is not a finished Job-- just prototyped. Later I will finish gusseting the top mount and crossmember-- and other brackets.

Notice the hole and round gussets made into giant tunnet through the front cross member. This allows the back of the box to sit back an extra inch or so--- gets it out of the way of trail hazzards.

The yellow rod in the engine compartment pic is the steering intermediate shaft-- passing through the large round gusset in the front crossmember.

This Jeep has a 2 inch body lift, the radiator is out of a 82 Chevy Malibu that had a Chevy 4.3 V6.
The radiator is mounted high directly on top of the front crossmember-- this keeps the radiator clear of mud if you go mud digging. It is also a good place to avoid getting a stick rammed through the radiator ( I had that happen before too) In other words the radiator is mounted in an area of protection.

And note the open front end knuckles of the Dana 30 swap (5:38 with locker inside)

 

The advice from Mcruff is correct.there are different versions of this modifacation and i have done several over many years.the one he shows and ,incidently mirrors the '72 -later cj's ,is the one that will make things a lot better all around.I don't know that the mounting bracket was intended to be that high on the frame.I mounted mine just like Mcruff on my 69 cj and the steering shaft cleared the motor mount easily and you don't need a droped pitman arm. my 2 cents worth ,hope it helps and good luck.


mike s.