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Burning up coil fuses

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by lynn, Aug 29, 2006.

  1. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    It's bad enough when you have to call your wife to come get you because the Jeep quit. It's really bad when she picks you up, you go home to get the tow equipment... go back to the Jeep and realize you brought the tow bar but not the ball and mount for the truck and have to go home AGAIN for it :evil:
    It's EXTREMELY bad when your wife falls down helping to push the junk, getting multiple scrapes and contusions, and certain she was going to be crushed by the Jeep (she wasn't, I had it)

    (Doug, this wasn't quite as bad as Kent's situation... but close enough!!)

    Then riding home with the Jeep in tow and no ballast in the truck, so it was noticeable when it swayed a bit on the highway... she was sure someone was going to be killed...

    :mad:

    She insisted I get rid of it and go get a new Jeep...

    So here's the history:
    Saturday I installed the new Pertronix. It's identical to the old one.
    I cut the red and black wires that were already installed, spliced the new ones onto those, solered and taped them.
    I did route the wires slightly different under the cap, ran them through a hole in the plate that holds the vac advance.

    It started and idled fine, then died after ~10 minutes.
    I rebuilt the carb, tried to start, then found the blown 30A coil fuse. Replaced it, ran fine around the block Sunday nite.

    Last night, I ran it 10 miles to the electrical supply store. It died at 9 miles, in the tiurning lane of a 4-lane highway. I checked the coil fuse, blown. :mad: Replaced it, got off the highway. 2 more fuses blown in the next mile... I got to the store 5 minutes before it closed. Bought my item, called home for rescue.
    Popped the hood while waiting. The coil was HOT.
    I had installed a new replacement coil, cheapie for ~$12 that I had as a spare. I suspected maybe it had the wrong resistance, so when I returned (the first time) I installed the Jacobs coil I had run with this set up for ~ 8 years. Tried that with my last fuse. Got about 150 yards, it blew the last fuse.
    That was it, out of fuses and ideas I towed the junk home.
    In strained silence and a few tears, see above.

    OK so what is causing the 30A fuse to blow? Why is the coil getting hot?

    Not a dead short, because it will run for awhile with a new fuse, or so it seemed... when it's not hot (note installing the other, cold coil and blowing another fuse within a minute or two seems to negate that theory :rofl: )

    I am running the ballast resistor with the Pertronix. Directions said if you had one before, leave it in. I ran it that way for years with the previous unit.
    Bad ballast resistor?
    Shouldn't really matter, the Pertronix should run OK on 12 V and not affect the coil.
    None of the other wiring was changed.

    I guess I need a lesson on coil theory and operation/troubleshooting.
    I'll go search now... but feel free to post your thoughts.

    :coffee:
     
  2. Aug 29, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Wow, glad your wife is ok, didn't get hurt worse. How long is the wire that's in line with the fuse? What gauge is it? Bad wire, bad insulation, rubbed somewhere that you don't see?
     
  3. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    The fuse is in the Painless fuse block. Most of the wires are in plastic loom with zip ties and/or tape. Rubbing/insulation wear isn't likely. The wire from the Pertronix back to the wire in the harness is the length of the engine block. That wire does have two soldered splices, one old, one new. Wire gage is probably 14, as supplied with the Pertronix.
    ThePertronix wire that goes to the coil neg. has one new splice, soldered and taped.
    I guess I can check the new splices I made... even though they are soldered ,maybe something is amiss... could a bad/weak connection in one of these cause the coil to get hot and blow the fuse?

    As for my wife's fall, thanks... a few small bumps and scratches, scared her more than anything.
     
  4. Aug 29, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Maybe I'm missing something here, but I believe 14 gauge wire should have melted the insulation and caught on fire if enough current went through it to blow a 30 amp fuse.
     
  5. Aug 29, 2006
    russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    Norris, Tennessee
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
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    498
    I'm no help on the electrical, but my wife got so tired of stopping everything to bring the truck to tow me and the jeep home that she got me and Ol' Gus a AAA membership. Gus has not left me sitting anywhere since then. I think it's the fear of the hook. :)
     
  6. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Those wires, coming out of the Pertronix, really shouldn't have anything to do with it, unless a bad connection is causing the coil to heat up and draw more amps to function.

    Looking at my Painless diagram, system power goes from the starter solenoid to the fuse block. from there, a wire comes out of the fuse block, through the BR, and to coil +.
    In addition. I see there is another wire identified as coil from the fuse panel to the ignition switch...

    Glenn, 14 ga shows correct in the Painless instructions.
     
  7. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    I'm going to give Painless tech a call, see which side of the coil circuit has the fuse. Maybe it's a bad connection, dirt, etc, in the ignition switch side....
    Painless opens in about 5 minutes.

    Russ.... :D
     
  8. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Painless said the fuse is after the ignition switch.
    Said it sounds like the coil is going bad... but this happens with 2 different coils, after it gets hot.

    As said, a dead short would pop the fuse immediately, not after the engine gets hot.

    The likely culprit then is the ballast resistor.
    If the resistance is too high, causing low voltage to the coil, the coil will overheat because it's trying to do too much work with not enough voltage... draws more amps, pops the fuse.
    I'll put a meter across the BR and see what I get. Painless said 1.15-1.3 V drop across the BR.

    The good news is that BRs are cheap.
    I need a bunch of 30A fuses too. I had 3 spares, burnt them up as well as the ones I canabalized from the headlight circuit and the heater circuit... :rofl:
     
  9. Aug 29, 2006
    sternbal

    sternbal Member

    Nashville, TN
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2004
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    Could the engine vibrations cause something to short out? I had a similar problem when I wired my choke into the same circuit as the fuel pump. It would short out against some of the hard vacuum lines.

    This is DC, ohm's law is still obeyed. If the resistor is too high, it will just limit the current, the max voltage is fixed. If the resistor is too small, you can draw too much current.

    I'd put an ohmmeter between ground and the coil (remove the fuse and disconnect the battery) and wiggle things around and look for a change.
     
  10. Aug 29, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Jul 30, 2003
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    this is not offered as a fix
    they make small push in circuit breakers for that type of panel
    I carry a 20 and a 30 for "just in case" need
    might have got you home...........slowly
     
  11. Aug 29, 2006
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
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    Wouldn’t checking voltage drop be misleading? I thought the only test you could do on a BR was a continuity check??

    Sorry to hear about your wife I hope she is feeling better……and feeling better about the jeep as well.
     
  12. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Given that I know nothing of electrical theory...
    I think I should have said 1.15-1.3 ohms drop across the BR.


    My understanding of a BR is that it drops voltage for power to the coil in the 'run' circuit from 12V to somewhere between 6 and 8, thus preserving points (in systems so equipped) and generally extending the life of the coil.
    So I should be able to measure the resistance across the BR terminals, correct? I believe if I'm getting more than about 1.3 ohms resistance, then that translates to reduced voltage to the coil to an unacceptable level. In turn the coil draws more amperage until it zaps the fuse.
    :?

    If I'm off base here... feel free to set me straight!

    (Thanks for the sensitivity regarding my wife :) I showed her Russ's post above, I think she felt a little better knowing others go through this. It's really a new experience for her, this CJ stranded me only one other time over the years. The big black mark in her mental "book" will last alot longer than her black-and-blue marks, I'm afraid... ;) )
     
  13. Aug 29, 2006
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Living the Good...
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    I'm no help Lynn, but I hope you fix it and I hope your wife feels better.
     
  14. Aug 29, 2006
    sternbal

    sternbal Member

    Nashville, TN
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    If they said to measure a drop, then it was a voltage. With current flowing through the resistor, there will be a potential difference between the two terminals. That is what you would measure. If there is no current flowing, then there will be no voltage drop.

    DO NOT measure ohms across the resistor with it in the circuit, especially with power applied. You will kill your meter.

    A larger resistor means less current. A smaller resistor mean more current. If you're blowing a 30 amp fuse, then you have a resistance somewhere in the loop less than 0.5 ohms.
     
  15. Aug 29, 2006
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
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    Funny....I haven't ran out of gas or had a breakdown that left me stranded since getting AAA again.

    I hope your wife is feeling okay, and learns to forgive your CJ over time.


    I have a ballast resistor I can send you (free). Mine's been bypassed since going HEI/MSD.
     
  16. Aug 29, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Thanks Mike. I'll let you know... prolly easiest to stop by FLAPS tonight and see what they have, since I'll be there for a bunch of fuses anyway :rofl:
    If I strike out I'll get back to you. :)
     
  17. Aug 29, 2006
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
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    The voltage will vary as the BR heats up and voltage drop can be misleading. It’s my understanding that BR is either good or bad by checking continuity, and as mentioned previously, measure out of circuit.
     
  18. Aug 29, 2006
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
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    I am sure mine is not in FSM tolerance, but it runs well. I get:

    Ballast resistor - .9ohms engine cold, 2.0ohms after 1 min warm up. This resulted in a <6vdc drop when cold, up to a 6.8vdc drop across the resistor when warm[ing].

    Coil - 1.5ohms engine cold, 1.7ohms after 1 min warm up. This resulted in ~4.7vdc drop across the coil when warm[ing].

    Note - I didn't rev the engine, so my 3-wire alt charge was likely nothing at the ~600rpm that it was idling. In other words, these voltages are straight off the battery with an 12.2vdc charge.

    P.S. You should definitely heed your wife's advice about getting rid of the JEEP - just think about how happy you'd make her by sending it here to KS ;)
     
  19. Aug 29, 2006
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Guys what ohm coil should be in the set up Lynn has?
    I know there are different coils available.
    Also look for a ground where the wires go into the distro.
     
  20. Aug 29, 2006
    runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    hickory, nc
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    this plate doesn't move with the vac. advance does it? if it does could be pinching the power wire. why did you need a new pertronix unit. could be related.
     
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