Steering Problems Related to Disc Brake Conversion

Took the '74 CJ5 to the mechanic for a problem with the rear end and he asked me about the disc brake conversion. He wanted to know if it was a complete front axle replacement or just a the brake parts replacement. I told him I didn't since "I just drive 'em, I don't fix them". He said he wanted to know because the turning radius seem to have been effected (a greater turn radius than on an unconverted CJ5). First, anyone know what the turn radius for a stock 1974 CJ5 is? Second, anyone know of any kind of problems associated with a front disc conversion that would effect the steering? I need information so I can talk to the mechanic with a little knowledge of what is being said.

 

make sure your steering stops are adjusted for maximum turn. They are probably not set right.

 

probably yours or his is off a fuss. don't remember the angle setting, but 23 degrees sticks out for some reason. i'm not close to the fsm. someone is thou.

 

I know that when I built my 44 front end I left the axle tubes 1/2 longer on each side so I could turn a little sharper. I added disc brakes on it too.

 

With the widetrack under the front I have the stops adjusted so that I just clear the springs at lock on both sides. It maneuvers very well.

 

Don't adjust the stops so far that the axle u-joints bind, though. That would be bad

 

I had a problem with my conversion on a D30. It is also a '74. I used the Chevy brackets and calipers with the 1 1/8" rotors. The banjo bolt would hit the knuckle at the axle tube and restricted my turning radius. I got the straight scoop from Nickmil on how to fix it. In fact I just did it last weekend. The six holes in the bracket need to be re-drilled exactly between the existing holes so you can re-clock the bracket and move the caliper up a little. It worked great and I now have no restrictions in my turning radius.The first pic shows the difference between the chevy and the Jeep knuckles. Notice the the spindle bolts that line up across from each other are at 12 oclock and 6 o'clock on one and at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the other. That's what causes the problem. The other pic is of one of the brackets that I re-drilled. I used an old spindle as a guide to mark the location of the holes. I had about 20 - 30 min of grinding on each knuckle to allow the caliper to clear. Nickmil deserves all the credit on this one though. I'd still be trying to figure out what went wrong without his advice. I hope this helps. Its one of the oddities of swapping discs to an early D30 that I'd never heard of before.

 

So, can you just use a Dana 44 knuckle that has the correct clocking? I have a dana 30 that I'm going to do the disc conversion on and have some Dana 44 knuckles in my shed that I could us. Thanks,

 

I've heard that D44 knuckles can be used on a D30. I don't know that for a fact. Maybe someone who does will respond here. In the pic above, the rusty knuckle is the Jeep D30.

 

Yes, CJ D30's share knuckle connecting design with Chevy, Ford, <'93 Dodge, Scout, and FSJ D44's.

In this manner, it's possible to make an 8-lug D30... though you may get tired of answering the "why the heck did you do that?" questions.