My cracked frame

I thought you'd like to see my new dilema...
View attachment 11384
Just aft of the rear leafspring mound
View attachment 11385
Just aft of the front spring mount on the same side as above and what's up with that support piece.
View attachment 11386
Behind the power steering mount, aft of the front spring mount, opposite side
View attachment 11387
What exactly is the purpose of these rods on the springs?

I'm guessing these cracks are common. They seems to be in high stress points. I also have a crack on the rear leafspring rear mount, both sides. Since the welder I have isn't hot enough for that guage steel I have to take it in to the shop. Has anybody else had craking in these spots?

Oh, and did you notice how somebody had tried to weld them in the past. I has a great time trying to grind them down. Whomever it was, was a terrible welder

-Ryan

 

I just read the "79 OK?" thread and found that maybe these cracks aren't the end of the world. I should have read that one first, but please still tell me what you think...

-Ryan

 

Looks like those rods would interfere with the normal action of the springs and limit articulation. I'd shed them.

 

The crack on the driver's side behind the PS bracket is particularly common. I'd grind off that patch on the passenger side. The crack behind the spring mount probably results from catching air (rat patrol stuff) and is where the frame bends when pushed up by the springs. Stiff springs on these Jeeps transfer a lot of stress to the frame...

I'd take the front clip off, weld the crack like Dan said, and lose the pointless bars. I'd be more inclined to add strap to the top and bottom of the frame, covering the cracks, rather than a plate. Welding across the frame rails is bad (except to fix the crack) - weld the reinforcement along the length of the reinforcement, so that force is directed along the length of the weld, not across it.

 

If you decide to put a patch plate/gusset on the side of the frame, don't make it a square plate, rather make it more "bullet shaped at each end. Welding vertically straight up and down on a side frame rail is a no no.

 

That's called a "fishmouth" and, as above, it's to make the welds more along the long axis of the frame. Welding straight across the frame rails or web (side) will be weaker than welding along the length. You can also leave the ends of the plate unwelded, but don't undercut the start of the weld.

 

btw you need a new shock absorber,

 

:iagree: And I also agree that you should weld down the length of the framerail and not across. Lose the traction bars, they don't serve a purpose in this situation.

 

Thanks, I ordered some Skyjacker hydros today. I thought maybe that was an ordinary leak from somewhereup there but I guess I needed them anyway.

Thanks for the advise on welding the frame. I welded the cracks and went for a trail ride to see how they held and they did fine, however I will put the fishmouth plates on as soon as I can. I'll get some pictures on here for future reference.

-Ryan

 

I have very similar cracks on mine too. I ground, welded and added a piece of angle that is under and comes up to a triangle. (new here, let me know if my pics are too big)

 

Intresting. This is the exact spot my 80 CJ5 has rotted through, and cracked.
I'll be boxing it in soon. It's jut interesting to see that that is a common weak point.
I've got 2 other spots on the right frame rail too, but I just chalked it up to 20 years as a woods beater.
THe left frame rail looks fine.....?

 

At least on this one it is cracks and not rust! I had to grind the undercoating off the frame to fix the cracks. So chaulk one up for good undercoating 30 some odd years ago!