Spring Over??

Ok, its time to put her in the air. I'm thinking of going SRS with stock YJ springs. But have a couple of Q's...

1. Will this clear 33's without rubbing, w/ out trimming even during etreme flex??

2. Will I need new drive shafts ft/rr, or can the stock ones be made to work with a tranny drop kit?

3. Steering, I know M.O.R.E. makes a steering correction kit, high steer I believe is this the way to go?? I still have the stock steering right now. but want to go to power in the future!

 

To some what answer your questions.

1. Yes.
2. You would be better off to lengthen the drive shafts. Keep in mind you are going to be lifting it around 5" with SOA.
3. You will definately have to make some steering corrections. Some of the others on here could probably answer the question of which way to go on it than I can because I haven't had to deal with too many SOA set ups that we weren't going to hydraulic steering on.

 

IMHO you would be better off getting a spring under lift then going SOA for 33s. Thats a lot of lift for those tires.

 

axles? sag or ross steering?

I think 33" will be too small.

driveshaft length will depend on what axles you have. When I go all out on mine in a couple years. I plan on using something similar to blue torch fabs SRS bumper combo.

 

1) The front will clear. You'll need to trim the rear fenders a bit for clearance at full compression.

2) If you do the shackle reversal in the front you'll absolutely need a new front driveshaft with a long slip spline or you'll separate your driveshaft when the front axle drops out. The rear will need to be lengthened.

3) Best way to do the steering if you've got the Saginaw box on the framehorn is to run a crossover drag link above the passenger-side spring to the top of the steering knuckle. Otherwise you'll need to put goofy bends in the drag link which will probably lead to bending under stress. However you accomplish this is up to you.

 

I have 2.5 lift springs and .5 shackles w/ 33's. I wouldnt go SOA, way too tall. Its a job getting in now! Been to Tellico twice, no issues on rubbing the stock body config.

Save the money/time for something else.

<edit> btw, L134 does fine, I originally was going to do a V6 but after the first Tellico run, I was impressed. L134 stays

 

http://jpmagazine.com/techarticles/66078/

Sorry Dummy, but your article explains alot on how to convert to Wrangler springs

 

I did a spring over with the stock springs and i had to mix and match driveshafts to get them to the lengths i needed. i used a longer yoke from a comanchee pickup in the front i think and the front yoke on the back. i cant really remember exactly what i did. My stock steering worked but i had to put a huge spacer with bracing at the bellcrank. I eventually converted it to a saganaw box. I just used a dj-5 steering column cus its identical to the cj-2a exept with splines on the end. so then i used an old saganaw box from my brothers nova. im sure you could use a power box and fit up a pump if you wanted. then i made my drag links out of welded together and sleeved bars that were on it just now there in a different configuration. It works quite well for not knowing what the heck i was doing oh and the steerin ratio was a bit too slow so i lengthened the pitman arm. but if your going to use a power box the ratio is usually quicker so it should be ok