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33's and stock steering

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by NoFlyZone, May 19, 2006.

  1. May 19, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    Okay, I am trying to decide between getting rid of the springs I just installed. Too tall for my 31's. I want to go to 33's eventually anyway once I go v6 and power steering. How bad will it be with the 33's now with the stock drivetrain and steering?
     
  2. May 19, 2006
    michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Clarkston MI...
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2003
    Messages:
    605
    Mine functions great on 33's! I have a saggy conversion + 2.5 lift springs. L134 plenty of power. I would suggest 11" brakes in the front at minimum because heavy 33's and steel wheels take alot more to stop from say 45-50 MPH (4-big flywheels spinning :D ).
     
  3. May 19, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    I know there is a ton of info on the saginaw conversion on the web. So much it has confused me. Can you reference one that worked for you? What vehicle to get the parts off mainly?
     
  4. May 19, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    In order to do the saggy conversion, you will need at least some welding and fabbing skills because you will need to box the front frame horns.

    You will need a mount for the steering box, and I highly recommend McRuff's kit. It is very beefy, and well-made. Another oprion is the cast-iron mount from a Commando, but they are getting very hard to find. As for the steering box, you have to choose between power/non-power. You will want to go manual with a 4-cylinder because there are no easy solutions to mounting a PS pump on an L- or F-head engine; A V-6 is considerably easier with boneyard parts readily available. IMHO a power setup in a flattie is waaay overkill, because I can spin my '2A's wheel with one finger and i have a manual box from a late CJ. As for the 3-hole box vs. a 4-hole box, either is OK. You just need to make sure that your donor car was either a CJ or a big, heavy GM sedan because a Camaro, Chevelle, Vega etc. is going to have a very quick box that will tend to be squirrely in a short WB Jeep.

    You will also have to either cut off your steering tube and weld a joint onto the bottom of it, or replace the column with a postal column because it will have the correct U-joint on it. Then you will need to fab up a custom steering shaft and notch the left engine mount to clear the shaft.

    That's all. ;)

    Very worthwhile swap IMHO.
     
  5. May 19, 2006
    michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Clarkston MI...
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2003
    Messages:
    605
    Yeah, what him say :iagree:

    Mine was already done by the PO

    I have to convert my 5 to saggy now so I will learn the process
     
  6. May 19, 2006
    Dybgpn

    Dybgpn New Member

    Las Vegas
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2005
    Messages:
    35
    What year postal columns are the best??? are they just a tube like the original....that bolt to the dash via a strap??
     
  7. May 19, 2006
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    You can make it work fine as long as your steering components are fresh/rebuilt. My '71 has 33's, a nice lift, and Ross steering. Nary a problem!!

    At least consider trying it w/ current steering before considering the swap. You just might be ok as this happy Jeeper is. ;) If it no werky, then swap away!
     
  8. May 20, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    My drag link is held on with safety wire. I will look for the Mcruff kit.
     
  9. May 20, 2006
    Missouri 71

    Missouri 71 Member

    Imperial, MO
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2005
    Messages:
    129
    Yesterday was the maiden voyage with my '71 combo (VERY close to your flatty): stock steering (bell crank rebuilt, tight tie-rod ends/king pins/drag link), 3" lift, 33x9.5's and steering stabilizer.
    I must say that I'm thrilled with the results.
    Tracks straight.
    60 mph was excellent.
    I do have some wander on back roads (none on the 4 lane) due to some sector shaft play but that'll be remedied with a fresh V6 Ross box install.

    I'll probably stick to the Ross combo for the foreseeable future since I have the necessary goodies to correct the wander.
     
  10. May 20, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    NoFly - pics of my '51 swap is in the archives here if your interested.
     
  11. May 22, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578

    I would really like to avoid cutting my crossmember. Is your box mounted lower to avoid this?
     
  12. May 22, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    Nope - as a rule I mount it up on the frame for strength. This requires replacing the crossmember with 2" Square stock.
     
  13. May 22, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    I was looking at this picture.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2007
  14. May 22, 2006
    Spicolli

    Spicolli jeep geek

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2004
    Messages:
    188
    Take a look @ herms the OD guys kit it might be what ya are lookin for!
     
  15. May 22, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    That is the old setup that I replaced - the drop as it was didn't hold up well and allowed to much flex when trying to steer. The PO didn't do some things that I believe are critical:
    - Box the front ears
    - redo the bumper area with C channel
    - gusset the back of the mount under the frame.

    If you do those things (like McRuff does) I believe it will work, but my preferance is the other way (which is why it's that way now)...

    I will be glad to give you advice if you need it on a drop setup... I like the way McRuff does his brackets for it and would recommend that.
     
  16. May 22, 2006
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Messages:
    2,706
    That mount looks like a cracked frame waiting to happen.
     
  17. May 23, 2006
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    I thought you had something different but, I saw the red paint and chrome bumper and was a little confused.
     
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