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stupid brakes, help

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by robbieyukon, May 7, 2006.

  1. May 7, 2006
    robbieyukon

    robbieyukon New Member

    central MD
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    i'm trying to do my brakes on my cj5 with 4cyl. this truck has 18k original miles. i can get the drums off. are the studs part of the drums? i think i need a puller, what have you all done?
     
    robbieyukon, May 7, 2006
    #1
  2. May 7, 2006
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2003
    Messages:
    3,327
    I usually beat on the drum with a hammer or put a few lug nuts on and tap on a piece of wood over the lug nuts.
     
    jzeber, May 7, 2006
    #2
  3. May 7, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,221
    Did you remove the three screws that hold the drum on? Err, well I'm guessing. Please fill in your profile so we can see what year your Jeep is and what engine, etc. it has to eliminate confusion. :)
     
    sparky, May 7, 2006
    #3
  4. May 7, 2006
    MCSCOTT

    MCSCOTT Member

    Columbia, Tn
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2006
    Messages:
    905
    :iagree: If there are no screws I usually beat on it for hours on end with a big hammer, only to have someone else walk right by and just thump it and make it fall off.:evil:
     
    MCSCOTT, May 7, 2006
    #4
  5. May 8, 2006
    robbieyukon

    robbieyukon New Member

    central MD
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    i didnt see any screws, just the big nut in the center if the drum.
     
    robbieyukon, May 8, 2006
    #5
  6. May 9, 2006
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
    Messages:
    2,084
    need to remove the nut (on the rear axle). drums are swagged on the hub. might have to pull the front hubs as they might be swagged as well.
     
    66cj5, May 9, 2006
    #6
  7. May 9, 2006
    russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    Norris, Tennessee
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
    Messages:
    498
    You really need a puller for the hubs or you will drive yourself crazy. I have experience here.

    I used a hub puller I got from Kaiser-Willys. In ten minutes I had both rear hubs and drums off. The front hubs and drums will come off without using a puller.

    http://www.kaiserwillys.com/
     
    russo, May 9, 2006
    #7
  8. May 9, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,221
    Rear hub comes off without a hub puller too, it slips over the hub just like the front. You only need the hub puller after the drum is off in my experience.
     
    sparky, May 9, 2006
    #8
  9. May 9, 2006
    dohc281

    dohc281 It is what it is.

    Laurel Springs, N.J.
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Messages:
    605
    :iagree:
     
    dohc281, May 9, 2006
    #9
  10. May 9, 2006
    Dabblin

    Dabblin Barn fresh 67 cj5

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2005
    Messages:
    63
    I've seen 2 types of drum flange arangements.
    One uses bevel headed screws to secure to drum to the flange. With this type you remove the screws and tap the drum to free it from the hub.
    The other (maybe more common on the later D44 tapered axle) is a flange with long shouldered lug bolts. The shoulder protrudes through the flang and locks the drum in place either py being pressed on, or by being peened so as to spread the shoulder and capture the drum.
    If there are sloted screws on your drum spaced about even with the studs
    then by removing them you can probably free up the drum by some gentle taping with a hammer.
    The drums all seem to have the holes for the screws, so a careful cleaning around the lug bolts where they come through the drum may be needed to make sure whitch system is in play. If you have the forced fit type you will need a puller, pull the flange with the drum attached, then press the bolts out to free up the drum.
    With the front its pretty much the same. Only the hub/drum assembly is pulled by removing the 2 nuts, washers, bearings etc.

    The drums may be turned while still attached to the flange/hub I think.
     
    Dabblin, May 9, 2006
    #10
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