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F-Head Rear Main Seal

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 53WillysM38A1, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2006
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    31
    Hello all,

    I just wanted to post a thread with some pics of my rear main seal. I am attempting to attach some files to this thread. My jeep has been leaking a rather large amount of oil...almost a solid trail when rolling at idle. For those of you with experience in changing these on this model jeep, is this typical wear damage? It doesn't smoke much at all but, most of my oil was lost around this seal. Oh, this is a 53 M38A1...if you haven't noticed my handle.

    Lee
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2008
  2. Apr 20, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
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    How in the heck did the oil slinger get that chewed up? I can only guess that the chips out of the cap are from some previous gorilla mechanic.

    Yes, your seal set is chewed.

    Be sure to CLEAN that area up well before reinstalling everything. Don't line up the split in the seal with the split in the cap/block, they should be off a few degrees, and some RTV on the ends of the seal can't hurt. And definately don't forget to leave about 1/4" of the rope sticking down for the pan to "crush" up in the hole.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    I sure was glad not to find any metal pieces in the pan after seeing those pieces missing.
    What do you mean by not lining up the splits? Are you talking about moving the cap inwards towards the front of the engine slightley so that the dowls fit tight?

    Oh, and I'm using the Felpro kit not rope.

    That oil slinger sure should be slinging some oil around in there with those fins on it, right? :)
     
  4. Apr 20, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
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    Where the two halves of the seal meet should not be right where the cap meets the block. In other words, when you go to push the top part of the seal over the crank, don't push it all the way even with the block, let it come out a few degrees short. Hope that makes sense.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    hmmm....can I get a pic or drawing of that?
     
  6. Apr 20, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    not to alarm you, but there are some other things wrong in the pics.
    there shouldn't be "nuts" on the engine side of the flywheel
    the bolts should go through the crank, with the nuts on the clutch side.
    actually, 2 of the six bolts that hold the flywheel on should be tapered/threaded pins, and I don't see those.
    It appears that the nuts aren't seated properly or all the way down on the flange of the crank, and I don't see any lockwashers as well.
    just an FYI
     
  7. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    never mind...after re-reading your reply I think I understand.

    Like this?
     
  8. Apr 20, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    quick pic for reference
     
  9. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    ahhh, I see Jim.

    It appears that some previous owner put the bolts in backwards and there isn't room to put a lock washer on the side that the nuts are on now. Hopefully they are on the other side atleast.

    The nuts are tight and I see what you are talking about how some don't look seated properly by allowing that ridge on the crank to hold them in a lock position.

    I really hate to drop the trans to tighten those bolts. But then again, I can't get the top half of the seal out from over the crank. I have loosened all the crank bolts and have the clutch pedal tied down with a rope.
     
  10. Apr 20, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    not trying to create more work, just pointing them out
    that's all
     
  11. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    I appreciate the foresight Jim very much.

    So if I can just get this seal replaced tonight or tomorrow without dropping the trans like so many people have said can be done, I will be tickled pink to stop the oil leak.

    Anybody want to come give me an extra hand tonight? :)
     
  12. Apr 20, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

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    Your drawing is correct. A drop of RTV where the seal halves meet is also a good idea.
     
  13. Apr 20, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Good catch by Jim on the bolts! Personal opinion....I would be worried about those bolts coming loose. Those dowels hold the flywheel in position so it doesn't shift at all. I wouldn't want to be out somewhere and have the flywheel come loose. :hurrican:
     
  14. Apr 20, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    I think the dowels that hold the flywheel in position are there. Look closely at the last pic I posted. You can see the ring where it is counter sunk.

    Lee
     
  15. Apr 20, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I did miss that. Countersunk. Interesting. :hurrican:
     
  16. Apr 26, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    Just kidding Glenn. Actually, the holes were never drilled out.

    Anyway, I finally got the upper half out and can't figure out how you guys get the new upper half in without dropping the trans. I've tried oil on the shaft side and some water on the block side and it just doesn't want to go. I actually got it to go about 1/2" and came to a dead stop.

    How do you do it?
     
  17. Apr 26, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Kiowamtp was doing the same job, with the same results. I never heard if he succeeded. You might contact him, he's probably still foaming at the mouth over it.
     
  18. Apr 26, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    I just sent him an email. Has anyone else ever succeded at this. Everybody says it's easy to do. I want them to come give me a hand.

    :)
     
  19. Apr 26, 2006
    53WillysM38A1

    53WillysM38A1 New Member

    Lake Charles, LA
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    aha...at last. My wife was a little upset that I had another woman with me under the jeep but a special thanks goes out to Dawn. She came staight out of the kitchen to give me a hand and together we got the top half in with the help of turning the crank with a crescent wrench on the front in one hand and needle nose pliers in the other forceing the upper seal half in.

    Now tomorrow the cap side and maybe the dowls.
     
  20. Apr 26, 2006
    60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    Alabama
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    there is no part on an e-cj that makes me as made as that one. I have replaced mine 2 times and it still leaks some. it is a pain in the rear to get the top half in without hurting it. I have a 3rd one waiting to go in "someday" Maybe when I get to Huntsville.
     
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