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My brain is going to pop....i just want to get back to stock

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Taper, Apr 5, 2006.

  1. Apr 5, 2006
    Taper

    Taper New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Messages:
    33
    I posted a few questions and everyone pitched in and helped, and to those...thank you. But please indulge me one final question and I'll give it a rest.
    I got a 65 CJ5 from the previous owner who put a 4 inch lift springs on it and some funky shackles. I think, for now, I'll retain the prings but want to loose those fangs in favor of stock. So here are the questions:
    1. Currently have a neg. castor. Will replacing the shackles help with that at least a LITTLE bit? I know springs are causing the most neg. castor....
    2. The PO also put the wedges (shims) on the back axle. I assume to help with the driveshaft bind situation? Will leaving them there hurt? He also put spacers on the transmission crossmember to drop that a little. I estimate about 1.5 inches tall.
    3. He used regular grade 8 bolts thru the shackle bracket and springs to secure. Didnt my jeep have threaded shackle bolts at one time? If so, i suppose using threaded shackle bolts again will be out of the question as the internal bracket threads will most likely be damaged?
    4. Please...someone supply me with part numbers from a reputable company so I can order what I need...my brain is going to pop.
    Here i a link to what is on the jeep as it sits now:
    http://home.swbell.net/tape-rr/shackle.jpg

    Thanks again everyone...weather here is getting warm...spring fever setting in...time to get out there...
     
  2. Apr 5, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,525
    if your Jeep had threaded shackles originally, then the threads may be damaged, worn, or ? due to the other shackles.
    You could use Jeep P/N 916646 shackle kit, which will include the bolts, nuts, shackle plates, and the 2 metal/rubber bushings to go into the hangars/spring eyes. You could also use the poly bushings with the same kit. Sometimes the bushings need pressed in, other times they might slip in easily, depending on those threads.
    These kits are almost available at all 4wd shops: 4WD Hardware, Krage, Turners, etc as well as anyone that handles Crown. The shackle plates are the stock length.
    I'd take the rear axle shims out as well as the x member spacers. if your going back stock or 2-1/2" lift only.
     
  3. Apr 5, 2006
    John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Mendenhall...
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    938
    your factory shackles were only 3" center to center of the bolts. that extra 1.5" is not that bad imo, and i think the factory shackles were pretty much the same as what you have there except no spacer between them. your's are probably better imo.

    it wasn't uncommon to see those spacers in the crossmember either....in fact it may have been stock....to lower the tranny down away from the floor board.
     
  4. Apr 5, 2006
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    9,221
    I'd keep the drop and the shims as taper said he's retaining the springs for now.
     
  5. Apr 5, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,525
    oops:oops:
    what they said
     
  6. Apr 5, 2006
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    492
    this is just my opinnion, but if you're going to replace the front shackles wth the originals then i "think" you would be able to remove the axle perch shims because the flat spot of the springs "should" be at the same place they were to begin with, making the castor stock... theoretically...

    also losing the lifting shackles in the rear might let you tuck the transmission up a little bit more, ie losing the inch and a half spacers, but there's only one way to tell what will happen with them not in there. although, with four inches of lift you've probably got the ground clearance issue pretty much taken care of.

    -- eddited cause i couldn't even follow what i typed.
     
  7. Apr 5, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Probably what you don't want to hear, but most of your issues are coming from those 4" lift springs. With that much spring lift came the need to drop the transfer case, tilt the axles, etc etc.

    Unless you absolutely need that much lift, I would consider dropping down to a 2-1/2" lift spring and removing all the add-on stuff. IMHO, 4 inches of lift in a 90-some inch wheelbase vehicle is really pushing the envelope.. YMMV ;)
     
  8. Apr 5, 2006
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2005
    Messages:
    779
    I'd bet there's people out there that would trade their 2-1/2" lift springs for yours.
     
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