Frame problem? measuring?

Starting to wonder if the frame on Achilles is bent. I've got the measurements in my manual, but I was just wondering if anyone knew of an easy way with ALL the stuff on the jeep to measure it.

I've tried sighting down the frame from the back and the drivers side "might" have a slight bow out. Hard to tell with the body on. Of course, I just had the body off 6 days ago so it would have been really easy to tell.

When I had the fiberglass body on the front fenders cracked because I thought the front of the body sagged causing it to push down on the fenders and crack them. Now I'm wondering if it was a combination of the frame and body. After we got the body on, I noticed the back pass side was higher than the drives rear by about 1 1/2" Shackles in back looked fine and noticed the front drivers side shackle was out farther. So that corner is drooping some. New springs 1-2 years ago.

Trying to get the new fenders and grill on yesterday and it won't physically fit. I can bolt one side of the grill to A fender, but I can't get the other fender to come close. Also, the pass fender hits the shock tower. Looks like I could cut 1/2-3/4" extra on that shock cutout on the fender and it might fit. Seems like it should be up higher. I need to get a pic of my firewall for Howard so I'll get one of this too in a few minutes.

Would my best bet be to take it to a frame shop and have them set it up for diagnosis?

 

Thanks Tim. Looks like I might have to tow this back over to my parents to measure it then. No concrete here yet.

I posted 2 pics of the grill just in case anyone wants to see what I'm dealing with. I got the pass side bolted up, and I'm holding the drivers side at the bottom. I'm also putting ALOT of force on it just to bring the bottom together. The top has a good 2 inch gap.

 

Pretty sure I do. i'm using stock type mounts. Cut 1 1/2" x about 3" pieces of rubber thats about3/8" thick. Bolts are tightened down till they are snug. I was using 1" thick rubber mounts before with the fiberglass body. Really don't want to cut the floor to make the pedals fit this time.


Just thinking. What would cause the front left spring to be flatter? Its not that old so I wasn't really blaming it. Would a flatter spring on one side cause the frame to droop enough so the fenders wouldn't line up?

I tried yesterday to jack up the pass side of the body to see if it would clear the shock. Didn't try the drivers side by the shackle. Let me go jack that corner up and see if it helps any...

 

Brian, quick check for a twistesd frame-

Beg/Borrow/Steel a graduated level & check that the front bumper & rear crossmember are level with respect to each other. If you can't find a level 20" or so of clear plastic hose, some coloured water & a marker will do.

I'm having trouble visualizing how you can have that gap without the tub being twisted, when you bolted it back onto the frame did you notice any trouble tightening certain bolts?


Just a thought- If the frame is twisted you may be able to take the twist out of the tub by strategicly placing spacers between the tub & frame at one or more of the mounting points-

& thanks for the firewall pics .

H.

 

Same reaction here.
Never had this problem with Wimpy, or the other jeeps I've taken apart. Don't have it powered up to run yet, so don't know how level the ground is right now. But I'll check it out and see how level things are.

 

Well, I jacked the front right corner up and no difference. Jacked the front left up, same thing. Jacked the front left corner under the clutch pedal(body only) and it brought things a little closer. Still had body bolts in so it couldn't move much, but it did help. That's the corner that my shackle is out farther on. Don't know how to describe it, but thinking somewhere on the drivers side the frame is bent some. Possibly by the engine?
I'm taking it to my dad's on tuesday to get some better measurements.

 

Well, now that you mention that Tim, I did cut out and replace the radiator crossmember. It got welded in the same spot, but the old one was in pretty sad shape. Wonder if it happened before I replaced it. I'm going to get the battery hooked up next week sometime and I'll move it to a better spot and check things. busy next couple days coming up.

 

Checked for ripples yesterday and there did seem to be some on the top rail on the drivers side. Was trying to figure out a way to do what Tim suggested and I do have a 14' piece of 4x6 left over from the barn.:twisted: Guess I can stick that under the rail, stick something just behind the front spring, tie the frame down around the engine mount and the 4x6 then jack up on the front.
I'll give it a shot and let ya know what happens...

 

Dats what I meant to say

Yea, I only had the plow on it for one winter and I didn't use it much, but the frame was from Grand rapids and it had a plow on it for years. Guessing from the guy I got it from it was probably abused:twisted:

 

Well, I think I got it fixed somewhat. Fenders still a little off, but might just need a little finessing tomarrow.

After we got the 4 corners propped up the same amount, Measured along the frame and it looked like the pass side drooped down to the front of the rear spring. Pretty much hung the 4x6 under the jeep with chains at each bumper and put a jack just infront of the rear spring. It did take out most of it. The rear of the body is the same distance off the ground at least now. Before you could visualy notice it in the wheel wells. At least 1 1/2" before. Now its the same in back on both sides.
Might have to add a extra body mount under the front floors to help get the grill up just a little more, but its good for now. Think I'll keep my eye out for a good frame to clean up for a future resto.

Thanks for jogging my memory Tim kept trying to figure out how to do this without having eye bolts cemented down somehow. Had an extra 4x6 that I didn't use from the barn. Red neck engineering at its finest
My dad thought I was nuts btw