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Which blasting media???

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Old Bill, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. Mar 19, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Messages:
    822
    Hey Gang,

    Ok, I've got a small blasting cabinet.

    I'll be getting a BIG air compressor soon.

    I've already got glass beads.

    The trouble is that my current compressor just doesn't cut it, and it takes a beating if I'm blasting for more than a few minutes. It would take forever to clean up a rusty knuckle as it is now. New compressor will take care of that I'm sure, but, I'm thinking I'd like to get a different media and wanted to get your thoughts on the various ones. Glass beads will work for the lighter clean up, but I'm thinking I'll want/need something a bit more agressive for a rusty/3 layers of paint type of object.

    Any thoughts?

    TIA
     
  2. Mar 19, 2006
    Drifter

    Drifter Luke the Drifter

    West TN
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2004
    Messages:
    39
    I've heard walnut shells myself but never done it. Heard that they strip well but don't damage the metal.

    Don't take my word for it ....research it. I'm a newbie.

    Luke
     
  3. Mar 19, 2006
    48cj2a

    48cj2a http://bantamt3c.com

    Central Illinois
    Joined:
    May 4, 2003
    Messages:
    526
    Black Beauty! But is agressive!
     
  4. Mar 19, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
    Messages:
    2,918
    I'd advise against going too aggressive. Wait until you get the new compressor and try the glass beads again. 'Tis better to take more time blasting with a less aggressive media than to accidently remove metal with something too strong.

    The walnut hull media is great stuff for soft metals like aluminum and brass. It cleans gently without damaging or removing the metal. You DON'T want to use anything aggressive on those metals! It will work well on ferrous metals too, just a little slower. Leaves a finer finish too.

    Parts with a lot of paint on them should be a lot easier and quicker to blast if you have them hot-tanked first. You'll just be removing rust and residues from the parts then, and not all the paint and crud.

    In any event, make sure that ALL PARTS you put in there are just as clean, dry and oil/grease free as humanly possible!! That will gum up a beadblaster quicker than anything. Same with moisture in the air line.
     
  5. Mar 20, 2006
    Lugnutz

    Lugnutz Jeepus Maximus

    Northern LP...
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2005
    Messages:
    17
    I've been doing alot of blasting lately and have been using black beauty and glass bead. Black beauty comes in different grit, and I would suggest the finest. I blasted some aluminum handrails last week with medium Bl. Beau. and it left one heck of a profile. Fine might be better. Got it for $8.50 per 80# bag at local cement plant. But I agree, I would see how your unit does with the new compressor before switching.
     
  6. Mar 21, 2006
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Boy, you guys are high tech. I just use regular ol' sand. Kiln dried, 30 mesh. Just got to be sure you get it all out of whatever you are working on. I blow it all out with air and then hit it with Brakeclean or lacquer thinner before paint.
     
  7. Mar 21, 2006
    tommy b

    tommy b Member

    Golden, Colorado
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2005
    Messages:
    341
    Living in AZ, you should have access to that fine grained dry lake bed or windblown sand. Just run it through a piece of window screen and it'll be fine for frames and cast iron parts. Watch it on more delicate parts like thin sheet metal. For that, I'd follow the advice given above.

    tommy b
     
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