Trailer rebuild questions

I have a old trailer Im going to rebuild on a budget. The deck area is 7x11 (inside the frame) with 6 foot of tongue. The frame is slightly tweeked , but it pulls fine. At first I wanted to narrow it to fix the frame problem. But now Im thing about retweeking the frame with a tractor and a front end loader. Then take about 2 foot of the planking out of the center to have a storage bin and D ring mounts for tie downs in the center and on the side. Of course I need to build ramps , fenders, front stop bar and mount the lights also. So here are my questions
1. would you keep the mobile home wheel set up or make new axels with standard 5 lug stuff ? note: the rear axel is equiped with electric brakes at the moment.
2. Im tempted to just drop the springs all together for a lower COG /better airodynamics and mount the axels soild or have I bumped my head?
3. The axel springs are independent right now .If I keep them is there any avantage to connecting the springs with a center pivot bar besides having the axels closer for turning?
4. Im going to replace the ball mount of the trailer with a diff one because I dont trust it , its the one that has a screw that you tighten down by hand. Should I replace it with a standard latch type or is there any thing out there better?
TIA
BTW here is a pic of the trailer earlier this year , I put the tires back on it today after work

 

Personaly after pulling mine w/o springs I would def. say keep 'em. It will about shake the fillings out of your teeth its sooo rough. You could move them to a SUA set up to lower it down some. I know in NC you cant register a trailer with motor home axles, and you might want to check on the legality of using a trailer with that setup in other states.

 

if the trailer axels have the pressed steel drums definatly loose them. If the drums are cast kelsey hayes or dexters They are ok but i'd still loose them. as far as the springs moove them closer togther for sure if you go to a center pivot the weight will be equal on both axels at all times even over rough areas but having them seprate you can have a flat and still pull the trailer. (www.crofttrailer.com) as far as couplers go
buy the best one you can afford. thats my $.02

 

I have a couple trailers that are registered with mobile home axels under them so I think Im ok. I priced hubs today though one of my suppliers , they are pretty sheep. If I can find some elcheapo rims and tires Ill be good. If I can get the 5 lug drums to work on the mobile home axel brakes it will save me about a 100 bucks.Im tring to get the trailer redone for under 300 bucks if I spend more then that I could buy one like I want.Thanks for the advise so far.

 

I found out the law was change last year , mobile home axels are a nono . But I found some 5 lug axels but Im going to need tires and rims. What are is the standard 5 lug pattern ,5 on5 or 5 on 5.5 ? I need to measure the pattern on the hubs I got. Im not sure if it is going to have the standard pattern because they are off of a old cotton trailer and I want to get some new wheels for it. I can get 15" trailer wheels for 20 bucks a peice but they dont say the inch on the lug patten.
TIA

 

If replacing the axles I would look at torsion springs. I made a utility trailer out of and old boat trailer that had a torsion axle and it lowered the bed quite a bit. They're more money, I think, but are a sealed unit that requires no mainenance.