57 cj5 lockers and and 225 carb cleaning

Hey guys, Just wondering what the stock setup is for a 57 cj-5 as far as locking differentials. Looks like mine has locking front hubs that you have to get out and crank? The back dosn't have them, maybe its always locked(spool)? Please correct me as I am most likley wrong.??! My jeep appears to be mostly stock with the exception of power steering and a dauntless 225. Is this the stock setup of differentials and if not what is? Also, I just pulled of my front clip and radiator. I squirted all my cylinders with wd40 via the spark plug holes. I took out the kick in the power steering pulley, put in a new alternator, tightened all the belts and aligned everything nice. I wanna hear the engine run, just for a little bit. You know, for a little inspiration. It hasn't run in 15 years but had no problems when the jeep was put to rest (due to a snapped shackle bracket) I've had the engine spinning but I wanna see it run. I was just going to pour same gas directly in the carb. My 2nd question...what would you guys do if you where in my position as far as cleaning the carb? Would you just squirt some carb cleaner in it followed by gas? or would you take the carb off and soak it? I'm only trying to get the engine to run for maybe 10 or 15 seconds, so I don't really wanna rebuild the carb yet or take it apart to clean it. any suggestions? thanks guys

 

Why clean the carb for 15 seconds of run time? It hasn't run for 15 years because a shackle mount was broken? The hubs you are reffering to on the front allow the wheels to freewheel without turning any of the front driveline. Less wear and tear and maybe a little better mileage. They are not lockers, they are locking hubs. The term "locker" usually refers to a locking differential. Are you planning on making it a trail runner or what? You've got a great engine to start with. Good luck.

 

I was gonna clean the carb so it didn't suck crud into the cylinders? That was my idea anyway. I want a vehicle that I can take out for fun. Wheeling through corn fields. Off roading with buddies from time to time. Taking in the back woods. I basically want a vehicle that is capable of plenty of off road but mainly be driven around town. Since I won't be driving it all the time, I can afford to have such things a 32's and whatnot (things you wouldn't have on your normal daily driver). I don't plan on putting a top or doors on it, so it definitly wouldn't be my daily driver. Trips from time to time on the highway to get to wheeling spots would be nice. Anyways, this guy broke his shackle mount and garaged it for 15 years. There are very minor things wrong with it. Snapped clutch cable, snapped e-brake cable, wiring is not too good. The main problem is the shackle bracket has to be welded or riveted back to the frame. Even the 8 track still works! So what kind of mechanisms come stock on a 57 cj-5? Is there any sort of locking differential or spool? When my wheels start spinning, what typically would happen? A limited slip type thing? Or would the back wheels typicaly be locked and the front wheels not?Or is it usually all on vaccum lines? Please excuse my cluelessness, just give me a little time to catch up

 

Welcome to the forum.
Unless someone has installed "traction devices" in your jeep, you will have open differentials from the factory (a powerlock differential was an option not sure for a '57 though). Basically, in mud you will have one wheel getting traction and pulling and the other trying to spin on each axle. No spools were installed by the factory.
"Marvels Mystery Oil" works good to free up stuck valves and rings on an engine that has been sitting up for a lot of years it causes alot of smoke out the tailpipe. Keep a fire extinguisher handy when using the gas down the carb trick.
Stick around, this forum can help you out more times than you can imagine!!:hurrican:
Oh yeah we like jeep pics too!!!

 

Damn, so that means I am going to be getting stuck all the time until i get some money to throw some lockers in huh? I'm not sure what type I want yet, but I would love to just be able to push a button and turn them on, like an air locker. An onboard air system seems cheap but the lockers themselves i think are expensive? But anyways, heres a pic of my baby upon arrival and a quickie of the engine. I've noticed most of you guys have a different style air intake on the 225, it looks like the one you can put a snorkel to. I've noticed that the vaccum line I have plugged off with a rag in this picture usually goes to the botom of the air intake you guys have. Where would the vaccum line go on my style air intake? and about how much to upgrade? I will post some side shots later

 

Looks good, Strider! Welcome to the "Jeep Addiction" thing. Looks like you have a lot of potential in that rig. Welcome from the High Sierras. By the way, is that a battery box on the passenger side cowl? If so, you probably have a M38A1. Maybe someone who knows more about them than me will chime in.

 

I'm really excited about this Jeep. I have been looking long and hard for one, and I don't think I could have found a better year. It is a battery box on the passenger side cowl. I believe it was designed for two six volt batteries but i hooked up a 12 volt and the headlights, horn and 8-track all work, so I assume it been converted. My battery won't fit in the box so ihave it hanging against the fire wall on a piece of rope right now. My engine spins great but I don't have any spark. I remeber the guy saying something about an m38 however the title says cj-5. I would love for someone to give me some history on this baby. It has the toolbox under the pass. seat, the snorkel cut out, and battery on the pass. cowl. Its had a 225 dropped in it, and saginaw power stearing. everything else is stock as far as I know.

 

Welcome from Colorado! If it has this on the pass. side and a hinged battery box lid on the cowl, it's an M38A1 military Jeep, not a CJ5.

 

As far as carb cleaning, etc. I'd say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" See if it will at least fire up, and do the bare minimum to make that happen.

If it does need help, running or not, try to do one thing at a time; it's a whole lot easier to diagnose and tune something that hasn't been messed with, introducing unknown variables.

I would however change the oil, etc., before waking the beast.

Good luck,

Pete

 

you guys are great. I guess I do have a military M38a1. Are these very rare? or at least slightly rarer then 57 cj5's? The title says 57 cj-5 but the guy was telling me that it was a military jeep. I assume it was made by willy's considering the year? Its in great shape and I stole it for 600 bucks. I tried firing it but it has no spark. But that subject is in a different thread altogether and I don't want to combine them. My jeep does have the fill cap on the passenger side as well, though it hasn't been used and still has a flat piece of metal covering it. I do have both the gas tanks, tho they need a little work. Any ways, as far as oil, my plan was...get the engine running for 15 sec or so with the old black oil thats in it (going with the assumtion that it will clean any debris off the cylinders from 15 years of sitting), then I was gonna imediatly drain it, run through two quarts of ****ty oil and let them just drain right out, then fill it up with some quakerstate, and a quart, maybe two of lucas oil stabilizer. Sound good? I like the idea of taking one thing at a time, and if it ain't broke don't fix it. By looking at most of your jeeps though, I figured I would get a bad rep for only doing what needs to be done rather then everything. 32's on a daily driver sounds great to me! It would be amazing to have you guys guide me through the parts of restoration I don't know about.

 

The nice thing about M38A1s is that they were "surplused" at very low milages - many can be found with about 25,000 on the clock.

Various details, such as springs and shackles are built heavier than civilian, and the alternators, etc, are wicked heavy-duty and high quality....and submersible! (Your tax dollars at work!)

Check and see if your frame has the machine gun mount under the middle of the rear floor. My '52 was originally fitted with a 106mm cannon; believe it or not a Nuclear missile was a "factory option."

Then after the military, they often sat with a Fire Dept. or overseas government for 20 years and often saw very little use. Those are getting returned to the open market these days.

Another advantage is that the parts are the same from year to year, and quite a few NOS are still available.

I don't know how rare they are, but there are dealers and clubs who specialize in them, and it's easy to find one. Also heavy used-truck dealers often have military parts. I've found it easier to get parts than it is for my 57 CJ5, but the 24 volt stuff is expensive.

Pete

 

I'd say drain out the sludge that's in there now, fill it up with "cheap" oil and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil, and then start it. After it's warm, then drain that mix out and refill with your good oil. Wouldn't hurt to put some MMO in that too, it's good stuff.

I definitely wouldn't start it with the 15 yr. old oil still in there. All the funk that's settled to the bottom over 15 yrs. will just get pumped all through the motor again. There's liable to be water and all kinds of nasties in there.

 

XXXX2

 

Ditto on what Sparky said. Also alot of guys wheel on this site with no lockers, I have a front aussie unit and do pretty good, I personally wouldn't use an electric locker in something thats not gonna be a daily driver, to much money for a little return use. As far as front hubs get used to turning them to lock the front wheels in, its better anyway. If you don't have spark check the ballast resistor, points, condenser, coil and the wires along with the ignition switch. Get rid of all the old oil and crap 1st not after you let it sludge the motor up. Oh and welcome aboard!!

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate all your welcomes, and I will change the oil tomorrow. I'm glad it didn't start now. So wait, I crank the front hubs to use 4-wheel drive period? or to lock the differential? please excuse my cluelessness. I assure you I am a quick learner and you won't have to deal with me much being an idiot for too long. Ok, so I took my distributor cap off today. I really like the clips on the distributor cap that you only have to give a quarter turn to remove. Leave it to old jeeps. Everything looks pretty nice under there. I ment to include pictures but my camera died. I will get some tomorrow. unfortounatly there where no sparks anywhere when i turned the engine. i put the cap back on, pulled the wire off the ignition coil, and tried to get it to arc about 1/8 inch. nothing. I didn't know if I was suppose to do that so i put the wire back on the ignition coil, and pulled it of the center of the distributor cap. I tried arcing a spark to the engine block but nothing. I'm thinking its gotta be the ignition coil, but once again, anything I say is a shot in the dark. well, tomorrow: change oil, take pictures of rotor and other ignition components.

 

Is there a special type of wrench i need to crank the hubs? or is there some kind of trick I don't know about?

 

No wrench, it would help to know what hubs you have.