Steering box rebuild

My steering box was very loose so I jacked the front end off the ground, had some turn the wheel from stop to stop and I loosened then tightend down the screw on the top of the box. That took the slack out of it. However now it feels like the steering is harder to turn and a little to sharp. In other words the slightest tug on the wheel and I'm in oncomming traffic. It just does not feel smooth. Anyone know how to fix this? I was thinking about tearing it down and rebuilding anyone done this? Any traps, pitfallls or things I should know before tearing into it?

 

Power or manual?

Simply tightening the adjustment screw on top will make the box bind. You are supposed to adjust the end play in the bearings before you adjust the gear mesh screw. The FSM has a description of how to do this, see www.c104.net for the '72 manual - it'll be the same as the '74.

 

Tim I read through the manual before and the problem I had is I had a hard time figuring out how to adjust the bearings. The only adj I could find is on the top. I am usually pretty good with this stuff but I think I am missing something obvious. Any suggestions? It is a manual gear. Also the box is on the truck still.

 

I've adjusted Ford boxes, but always when removed from the car. You may have a hard time adjusting it in the car.

If you look at the front of the box (the end opposite where the steering shaft comes into the box) you'll see a big nut and lock nut. Whan this nut is removed, the guts of the steering gear come out. Look at figure 5 here: http://www.c104.net/manual/Section_11.pdf - this is a x-sec of the box. The worm bearing adjuster is shown.

 

Originally I did start to take that nut off as soon as I got it almost off it started to leak fluid. I guess I can take it out and try adjusting it.

 

Mmm... IIRC the manual saginaw boxes are supposed to be filled with grease, not oil. Shouldn't drip. You don't need to remove the nut to adjust it - you may be able to disconnect the steering shaft and drag link and adjust the end play in the Jeep.

 

I know I did not think there was supposed to be any oil in it either. OK so the nut I am talking about is the huge nut you can see when standing in front of the Jeep is that what you are referring to? I am going to back of the screw adjustment I made and try adjusting the endplay. Do you thing I did any damage by making the original adj? I have only put about 75 miles on it since the adjustment.

 

Yes. Dunno about any damage - unless you really torqued the screw, chances are it's ok.

 

No I did not tourque to hard. I guess I'll give it another go and if it does not work I'll get a remaned. Thanks for your help Tim.

 

Saginaw boxes came from the factory with 90WT oil. What usually happens is the shaft seals eventually start to leak and the PO can't keep it full. Out comes the grease gun. The problem with Grease in the boxes is it won't flow properly through the bushings or recirculating balls.
As for adjusting the box, be sure to drop the drag link and center the box. This will elimenate any off center binding. Once the box is done, be sure the box is still centered when driving down the road.

 

Maybe it's changed, but my '77 manual says "Manual steering gear: AM all-purpose lubricant or multi-purpose chassis lubricant (lithium base)" . This is the same grease used in U-joints and for chassis lube. I was surprised by this, since the Ford boxes use 90WT.

 

X2 for the 79

 

I don't mean to beat a dead horse but here is where I am with this.

I am going to attempt to adjust the endplay with the box in the jeep and everything hooked up. The FSM gives torque settings that are measured by a wrench on the pitman side and steering shaft side, so I am just going to use my best judgement w/out the torque wrench

The adjuster for the end play (the big hex nut that faces the front of the Jeep) is what I will do 1st. This adjuster has a larger nut around its perimeter to lock your adjuster nut in place once the adj is made. Is this statement correct? I ask this because I believe my adjuster nut and it's locking nut are frozen together. I am going to remove the adjuster and the lock nut as one, bring it to the vice and try to separae them. I am going to then back out the lash adjuster (screw/nut on top) all of the way and remove it. I am going to put the endplay adjuster back on, make the adjustment lock it in place, fill the box with oil from the lash hole on top, and then replace the lash adjuster and nut and adjust the lash. Does this sound like it will work? Any comments? Also since I will not be able to use a torque wrench, any way of knowing / testing when I have the correct adjustements made for both the end lay and lash adjusters?

Sorry about this long ramble. I hope to put this issue to bed tonight! Thanks for all of the help and advice so far!

 

That's interesting to know. I rebuilt a gadzillion (20 or so) of these boxes in the early 90's. The local GM service department advised 90WT in manual Saganaw boxes. Their statement was that that grease (the question arose due to finding both grease and oil in different boxes)wouldn't flow well in the bushings, especialy the top one, a problem well noted. All the boxes I rebuilt went out the door with 90WT in them with no problems. Guess you learn something new every day.