Holes w/o big $$ hole saws?

Are you referring to something like this?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ggo.0&pid=00925293000&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
Don't think you can use this in a hand drill.

I've used a sabre saw (aka jig saw) with a metal cuting blade - works pretty well. Needs a bit of cleanup afterward, but if you cover the surface with tape and back it up, you'll get a clean hole.

 

Does it need to be one large hole? Can you lay out a series of smaller holes in a circular pattern? It would make it look like a grill of sorts if you can manage it.....

 

Do you know any electricians? There's a hole punch for sheet metal that electricians use for things like service panels and such, that's hydraulic and uses hardened punchs and dies in several sizes, up to 4" or so. You can usually rent kits at tool rental places, but you might want to check the price and also how much distortion they'd make.

You drill a small hole in the panel, assemble the punch and die together through the hole and pump the handle...presto, hole! But I would recommend researching the distortion/paint damage factors first.

 

My jigsaw has a circle-cutting attachment that turns the saw into a compass. Could yours have come with it and you tucked it in the back of the tool drawer maybe? I've used mine a few times in wood. It should work well for metal too as long as you drill a small pilot hole first.

 

That's what I was going to say Mike for the absolute cleanest hole, but FWIW, I cut the hole for my speedometer in my dash with a jigsaw. It's really not that hard.

 

I am an Electrician And a knock out punch would be perfect no distortion but remember the size on the punch is pipe size so a 4" punch is accually 4 3/8. So I'd go with a 3 1/2"

 

Yes, Greenlee knockout punch...that's what I was thinking of, couldn't remember what it was called. I also forgot about the manual version, those would work very well in a thin sheet steel dash.

 

Mike,

I've got a 4" holesaw I'd be happy to loan you.