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Engine assembly Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by captain cj, Dec 21, 2005.

  1. Dec 21, 2005
    captain cj

    captain cj Member

    Crystal Beach...
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2005
    Messages:
    331
    Got my :v6: block back from the machine shop todayR) had the block tanked, bore checked is was in good shape they just honed it, Had the crank ground cam bearings installed heads redone with hardened exhaust seats. Also got all the parts from the machine shop rings bearings gasket set roller timing set and high volume oil pump kit new cam basically everything I need to rebuild. Total $ 902.00 I think I did pretty good, this was the :v6: I bought on E-bay for $102.00. Anyway back to my question Whats your preferences for assembly lube? Also I have heard here and the shop told me as well to scrub the block with soap and water Does this mean the cylinders and everything or just the outside?
    Steve
     
  2. Dec 21, 2005
    SIDSCJ

    SIDSCJ Jeep addict

    14th State
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2004
    Messages:
    1,192
    Check with your machine shop on assy lube, also cam instructions should have a recommended lube. Wash the entire engine so as to get ALL the crud and machining leftovers out of all the oil passages. You don't want a bunch of filings headed for your new bearings as you fire it up. Blow it all out w/compressed air and lube your machined surfaces if its gonna sit before you put it together.
     
  3. Dec 21, 2005
    James P. Enderwies

    James P. Enderwies Sponsor

    Lake Havasu City, AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2003
    Messages:
    747
    Steve: Scrub the block INSIDE and OUT with hot water and Tide (or equivelant). I used to use a nylon rifle brush on a cleaning rod to get to all the small passages or bores. Then hose it off with hot water and a force nozel--yes you'll get wet!R)

    There are many more things that you "can" do to prep the block prior to assembly, such as painting the lifter valley with Rustoleum "Damp Proof Red Primer" or one of the electrical insulation primer/paints. These have been dixcussed here before.

    Have Fun!:)
     
  4. Dec 21, 2005
    captain cj

    captain cj Member

    Crystal Beach...
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2005
    Messages:
    331
    James, Just went off on a search for info on painting the lifter valley. I found some interesting reading but nothing on this subject . What is the reason for doing this?
    Steve
     
  5. Dec 21, 2005
    James P. Enderwies

    James P. Enderwies Sponsor

    Lake Havasu City, AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2003
    Messages:
    747
    Steve: It speeds (eases) the flow of hot oil back to the pan. Some even paint the inside of the crankcase. I never went that far.

    Someone here, Mcruff I think but not sure, mentioned the electrical paint. They posted a link to the site, but I didn't save it.:(
     
  6. Dec 21, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    don't forget to run a tap in all theaded holes.
     
  7. Dec 21, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    Federal mogul makes a good asembly lube that comes in a bottle. Glyptol is the stuff you use in the intake valley, you can get it from auto parts places and Eastwood among others. I used a pressure washer wand on a garden hose to clean the block. Lube the block after you have sprayed it liberally with WD-40, that will shed the water. Running a tap thru all the holes 1st is agood idea. Any rough casting burrs in the lifter area and valley area can be removed with a dremel before cleaning, be very, very careful here and use common since, you can ruin a block with this if you go nuts. Get some plastigage to check bearing clearance and feeler gages to check the ring end clearance.
    Take your time. Clean, Clean, Clean!!!!!!!!!!!!
    The crank shoud go in at least 3X before finishing if you want it right. Once your crank is in make sure it spins freely before the rods and pistons are installed. It took me 7 hours to install my pistons, rods and crank. I checked the clearance on every rod, and every main bearing 1 at a time to make sure they were right. I balanced my assembly within 1 gram. Oh and have a spare oil filter and oil to get the assembly lube out of the engine after you run it in for about 25-35 minutes.

    Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!
     
  8. Dec 21, 2005
    captain cj

    captain cj Member

    Crystal Beach...
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2005
    Messages:
    331
    Thanks Mike for the great advise I was reading one of you earlier posts on assembly. re assembling w/o rings first to check with plastigage. I am taking off the next week and a half so I have plenty of time to do it right. Thanks everyone else for their excellent advise also.
    Steve
     
  9. Dec 22, 2005
    Phalanxx

    Phalanxx Jeep Newbie

    iraq, texas,...
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2004
    Messages:
    363
    a few more things.
    when you clean your block, use transmission fluid in the cylinders. that cutting oil is pretty tough to get off and since transmission fluid is a cleaner per se', itll take alot of grunge off.

    another tip is to install a magnet on the bottom of your oil pan. this will attract shavings as they circulate. keeps them from getting in your bearings etc.

    plastigauge is cheap..especially when compaired to the rest of your engine. check everything...=)
    i will be starting mine in a few weeks so i will buy stock in plastigauge beforehand. its in the shop right now awaiting the cam bearings. but everything else is on my kitchen table. neighbor lady just laughes when she walks in..lol
     
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