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Pinion bearing replacement

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by MOP, Nov 27, 2005.

  1. Nov 27, 2005
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2003
    Messages:
    1,131
    What is required to replace the outer pinion bearing on my rear axle? How easy/how long does it take?
     
    MOP, Nov 27, 2005
    #1
  2. Nov 27, 2005
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,124

    Havn't done it myself but it needs to be done to Tonka's back axle. Looking at the FSM it definately looks like the pinion has to come out.
    That means the carrier has to come out.
    That means the axles have to come out.

    Here's a good overview:

    http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/

    His is a model 41, I'm assuming yours is a 44. The pinion adjustment is different between them but it still has to be done anyhow when things go back togeather.

    I havn't made up my mind if this is something I really want to get into myself or if I'm gonna drag it over to the local jeep shop.

    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Nov 27, 2005
    #2
  3. Nov 27, 2005
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
    Messages:
    2,084
    to remove the pinion, the ring and carrier must be removed from the housing. the factory manual gives a COMPLETE step by step description.
     
    66cj5, Nov 27, 2005
    #3
  4. Nov 28, 2005
    181jeep

    181jeep Banned

    central valley, ca
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
    Messages:
    376
    I don't believe it has to come out to change the outer bearing but I don't know that I would only change the outer bearing. The cup will be hard to pull with the pinion still in the way.

    JB
     
    181jeep, Nov 28, 2005
    #4
  5. Nov 28, 2005
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    If it were the front axle instead, I'd probably just try to get the bearing out (they're not really a press fit on the outer)and check the condition of the race. If it looked good I'd put in a new cone and call it good. But, it ain't the rear, so here's what I know from replacing the R&P in my D30. Everything has to come out. When setting up a R&P the first thing thats done is to set the pinion preload via a shim set. That can't be done with the carrier in. To check preload you need an inch pound torque wrench. The cheapest one I found was over $100, and it goes on and on.... So, the best advise I can give you is this: dismantle the axle, but leave in the R&P, pull the axle out and take it to a shop that can do the setup and since it's the rear and it's in use all the time, have them replace all the bearings. Then your done for a lifetime (hopefully). One more thing, have you checked the pinion nut to see if it has just gotten loose? If it has and it hasn't been running a long time that way, you might get away with just re-torqueing it.Sorry this got so long winded.
     
    Posimoto, Nov 28, 2005
    #5
  6. Nov 28, 2005
    MOP

    MOP Active Member

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2003
    Messages:
    1,131
    I appreciate the long-winded version....I will check the pinion nut, but I am guessing it is time for the whole-shootin' match.

    I think I will wait on this until spring. I can live with the grumbling for now. It is really only noticeable at highway speeds when I coast down a hill or slow down pretty quickly.
     
    MOP, Nov 28, 2005
    #6
  7. Nov 28, 2005
    greencj5

    greencj5 Member

    So. California 91016
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2004
    Messages:
    165
    I wouldn't wait to long if your driving it alot. The pin to the grenade may have been pulled and it may be just a matter of time before it blows:shock:
     
    greencj5, Nov 28, 2005
    #7
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