another lift question...

Whats the general concensus around here for amount of lift to fit 33" tires? 2-4" im thinking? When i got my jeep it had 33" tires and no lift, its ok on the road, rubs the exhaust when turning sharp though.

Thanks

 

I have a pro comp 2.5" lift on speedy with 33x12.50's. Here's a photo...

 

Once again Dennis, Speedbuggy looks good

 

Thanks, David! Slow but sure, she's coming around

 

if your gonna want to wheel it, i'd say four inch. i use that and a two inch body lift and i can still get the front tires to hit the fenders

 

This is ~5 inches lift and 35" tires.I can stuff all 4 corners all the way up to the top of the wheel wells off-road.

 

Looks like you cut the rear fenders? Makes a big difference.

 

Yup, trimmed to keep the rubber out of the sheet metal.

 

Hey, Hudsonhawk, I knew there was something I liked about you. Does this look familiar. Just so I don't hijack this thread entirely, I'm using a 4" Skyjacker Softride suspension with a 2"+ body lift to clear 35's. My dent on the cowl is on the driver's side. lol

 

I have 2 1/2 lift from springs and another 1 1/2 from my heavy duty shackles. The 33's fit pretty well. I just have minor rubbing on rare occasions. I'm still running a fairly narrow tire though, 33 x 10.5.

 

With 4" of lift what else needs to be addressed? drive shafts? brake lines im guessing?, shocks..i see some kits come with them.

Thanks guys..+Gal!

 

You pretty much covered it in the above post. You will probably have to get a dropped pitman arm and the front axle geometry may have to be addressed via castor shims between the axle and spring pack. Be sure to check the front driveshaft for binding if you go with the 4" springs. Dropping the crossmember down with the spacers hellp the rear driveline angle, but makes the front worse. I'd try not to space the crossmember down if possible, but you may have to use a CV on the rear driveshaft. If the front drive shaft binds you need to angle the pinion up with the castor shims, but you still need to have enough negative castor to keep the steering manageable. So there is a limit to how much you can raise the pinion. Just enough to keep the driveshaft from binding and no more. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't that bad. And hey, you got all winter, right?

 

I can't say what all you will need. All we had to do to mine was add the shims that were provided with the lift kit. I didn't have any drive shaft problems until we switched transmissions.