Electric Fuel Pump question...

I have an electric fuel pump on the 283 V8 in my jeep and when I first turn the key (even before cranking), you can here a clicking noise for about 3 or so seconds. Well, this week I somehow flooded the jeep trying to start it and now the clicking noise continues without shutting off at all. First, IS that clicking noise most likely the electric fuel pump and if so, does the constant clicking indicate it's shot or is there something I could do about it? How easy is it to replace and do they cost much? :?

TIA!

 

Yes, Sparky's correct. There are both rotary (whirr) and plunger (click click) types of pumps. Both make noise until the fuel lines are pressurized. Sounds like the pump can't keep pressure, either due to gas leaking back inside the pump, or a loss of pressure somewhere. Check that you aren't pumping gas down the carburetor; smell your dipstick too.

How much rubber fuel hose do you have between the tank and the carb? Ideally you should use as much steel as possible. If it were mine, I'd also use high pressure fuel hose for the short lengths, just to avoid any spongeyness in the hoses.

 

OK... thanks guys. I'll look into that! I'm at work right now so I'll have to check on the rubber hose situation when I get home. I've been wanting to replace rubber hoses with SS braided hoses anyway just for show but perhaps will do so sooner for mechanical reasons.

I've let it go (clicking) for about 10 seconds before shutting it off. In the past, 3-5 seconds was about as long as it would take and I didn't know if I would do any damage letting it click like that longer. It definitely has a strong fuel smell like it's flooded. Actually, I did let it start once this weekend and the clicking continued until the engine flooded out. I'll have to check the needle situation. Is it easy to spot once I take the air cleaner off?

As I've stated in past threads, I'm a mechanical newbie at anything but jet engines and VWs.

 

Steel brake line is best - cheap at the local parts store. Just use the high-pressure flexible line in short lengths where you have to splice things together, or where you need to allow motion. I wouldn't bother with the braided line unless you like the look of it.

 

If I'm not mistaken, I believe it is a Holley. Seems like I read that in the log book where the builder documented everything he did. That is not for certain, though. I'll check when I get back home. Right now, I am "hard at work"! R)

And Tim, I do like the look of the steel braided lines. Is there any 'harm' in using that instead of the steel brake lines?

 

Other than the harm to your pocketbook? Shouldn't be. Maybe I should tell you the story about my Dad's motorhome that burnt to a bare chassis. He plumbed an AC electric pump with rubber line under the floor. I guess I can tell that story now - he's been gone for more than 5 years. I never brought it up while he was alive, but I'm sure that's what caused the fire. I'd think the rigid steel line would be much safer under the Jeep. Be careful with rubber fuel lines, braid-covered or not.

 

When I wire an electric fuel pump I set it up so the engine has to be running to pump fuel. I put a pressure switch in the oil gallery (tee next to the oil pressure switch) to bring 12 volts through a relay while the engine is running, to get it to start I bring 12 volts from the key switch start position while cranking, so the pump will run before oil pressure is achieved, but not in the run position unless the engine is running. I always power the pump through a relay and fuse. This is a safety deal, just my .02. Your problem sounds like a needle in the carb not seating.
Joe

 

Hey Sparky...

I was incorrect. It is neither a Carter, nor a Holley. It is a Edlebrock (spelling?).

I'm guessing this doesn't change the suggestion about the needle sticking. I didn't get to take a look at it today as we are getting ready for a yard sale and the wife had other plans for me! Maybe this weekend I can take a look!