Hydro Clutch Slave Cylinder ???

@ Redcreek I lost my clutch...I think I described it earlier but it appeared that the slave cylinder (hydraulic clutch) blew out.

I bought a new slave cylinder and installed it yesterday. I pumped up the cylinder to bleed the line and it seemed to take forever. Finally when I was just about to get a little resistance from the pedal the new cylinder blew out too. I checked it out to find that the plastic pivot which sits in a hole in the clutch fork had broken and the push rod had nothing to push against. It just pushed right through the hole in the pivot and I think it simply extended too far and released all the fluid. I've found the new plastic pivot and will order it today, but I'm wondering if I've ruined my new slave cylinder.

I pushed the rod back into the slave cylinder and it appears that it is OK. Opinions?

 

As long as you didn't catch the edge of the cups (for the slave) you should be all right. You mentioned a hole in the arm, are you saying that the cluthc fork has a hole big enough for the rod to go through? If this is the case you need to fix that first. There is normally a hole about 1/8" dia. in the fork. I've done a few hydro installs with out even using the plastic pivot and not had a problem. Just my two.

 

Yep there is a hole in the clutch fork arm. The plastic pivot goes into this hole and the pivot receives the push rod. Without the pivot the push rod will just go right through the hole.

The pivot looks sort of like the cap for a tube of caulking.

 

I would find a way to cap off that hole? it should cup the pivot cap. I am willing to bet the hole is what is causeing the caps to break.

 

My plastic pivot broke again so I'm going to do something different. I found this article. Not sure if the pic will show but here's what another fella did. Same exact problem as I have with the same set up. What's he referring to when he describes the jam nut and the rocker arm pivot ball. Is he letting the pivot ball go against the clutch fork? And are both nuts on the push side of the clutch fork? And....why do I need the return spring. There's not one on there now.

By: Jeep Layton - 1/2001


Here you can see the push rod Jeff fabricated to work the fork.
Putting together the clutch linkage was a mix and match of different parts. The hydraulic clutch pushrod was custom made to fit the conversion, as well as the chipped paint on the frame (frame paint is something I'd do much differently next time). Although the cultch slave cylinder (and master) are off an early '80s CJ with Iron Duke GM 4-cyl, the clutch fork necessitates a pushrod change. I tried using CJ parts, but couldn't get it to fit the Chevy clutch fork.

I ended up using 3/8" threaded rod and 2 jam nuts to make my own pushrod. A hardware-store spring was added as a return spring. Also worth noting, but not quite visible, is the pushrod ball: to fit the indentation in the clutch fork, I got a chevy smallblock rocker-arm pivot ball & slipped it between the jam-nuts & the clutch fork - should last a lifetime in this application.

 

The return spring ensures that the clutch fork is not setting against the clutch plate. Its added insurance as even the slightest preassure could cause the clutch to slip and wear prematurely.

Sounds like you are correct about the position of the jam nuts. He probalby did it to lock them in place so they would not move due to vibration. The pivot ball does the same thing as the plasitc pivot you keep breaking. Its probalby metal and will not go through the hole.

 

Just got back from the bolt and screw store. Found a bolt that's grade 8 and the exact same length as the push rod, and 1/32" larger in diameter. Should work fine. Also while I was there I found some sort of special nut that actually looks almost exactly like the plastic piece that keeps breaking. It's about 1" long X 3/8" and has a flange on it to keep it from going through the fork. I'll have to drill out the hole in the clutch fork to fit it and then slot it some so it can wobble left and right as the fork is pushed forward but I think it'll be 100% repaired if I can get it in there. Plus, this nut is threaded so I'll actually have some adjustment in the length of the push rod if I want it.

 

Well the little specialty nut I found wouldn't work. I failed to consider that there isn't enough room under there to get a drill motor into to drill out the hole. Not a problem. I went to plan B. I cut the head off the bolt then run a jam nut and a reg nut onto the threads @ the end. Then I ground the corners off the nut so that it's tapered like an acorn nut, or a lug nut. It works perfectly and I don't think I'll ever have to worry bout that problem again.