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Roll Cage

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ilovemyjeep, Aug 2, 2005.

  1. Aug 2, 2005
    ilovemyjeep

    ilovemyjeep 1971 CJ-5 w/ Dauntless V6

    Atlanta, Georgia
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    While I'm in the process of painting, I want to install a new roll cage instead of the crappy fender-well mounted pos.

    My fabrication skills (especially with pipe) are pretty good as far as welding, bending, etc. Being a pipe-fitter and all.

    Should I take the extra time to do a full frame-mounted cage, or just bolt it to the floor? I can get my hands on pretty much any size steel pipe at work. What size would be the best to use, or does it even matter?

    I don't plan on flipping my jeep over, but i'm sure it's bound to happen one day. :twisted:
     
  2. Aug 2, 2005
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Living the Good...
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    I had the local speedshop build mine for me. I wanted a sprint-car style cage. 2" od roll cage tubing was used. Not sure of the thickness, but it is a legal racing cage if that helps.

    You'll find lots of opinions on whether to tie it into the frame. If you are hard-core rock crawling, then I'd do it. Otherwise, bolt it to the floor and you'll be fine. Just my humble opinion...
     
  3. Aug 2, 2005
    ilovemyjeep

    ilovemyjeep 1971 CJ-5 w/ Dauntless V6

    Atlanta, Georgia
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    not really a "Hard core" rock crawler, but friends and I hit some pretty intense trails every now and then.. I've had the jeep almost rolled twice. luckily there were enough strong and willing onlookers to hold it from completely falling over into ditches, etc. I would like to tie it into the frame, but I'm just not sure on how exactly I would need to go about it, and how much extra work it's going to be. I'm up for the challenge, I just want to know what I'mg etting myself into.

    If anyone has any pictures of either floor moutned or frame mounted it would be much appreciated. Thank you.
     
  4. Aug 2, 2005
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

    California High...
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    If you are into high-speed running, or extreme rock-climbing, I'd tie it into the frame. For average wheeling, a floor-mounted cage with large-area backing plates to limit stress at the mounting points will probably be fine. 1 1/2 inch .120 wall DOM tubing should be fine for most applications. If you wish, you can go to 2 inch, but I perdonally find that the 2 inch tubes take up too much space near the knees, and force an overly large bend radius.
     
  5. Aug 2, 2005
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Living the Good...
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    Check the link in my signature for some cage pics.
     
  6. Aug 2, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Rollcage Pics.

    It's in my 6, but still some good ideas there:
    - Not tied to frame
    - Seat mounts integrated
    - TJ Seatbelts all around
     
  7. Aug 2, 2005
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
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    The main thing to think of in the frame tie/no frame tie in, is whether the sheetmetal you attach the cage to will support nearly double the weight of your Jeep.

    Take the time to fully consider your mounting locations...
     
  8. Aug 2, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    BTW - I should mention this:

    [​IMG]

    1.25 times on a full cage, not tied to the frame. Rollcage held up fine, nothing even looked stressed around where it mounted to the front floor and rear wheelwells.
     
  9. Aug 3, 2005
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
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    Mike, a singular sample doesn't really help the argument either way.

    While I believe that a floor mounted cage can and will be strong enough when properly executed, not all ECJs have the structural integrety to have their floors and rear inners hold up in a hard roll. I have seen many CJs completly rip their cage from the body on light rolls, and I have also seen exhaust tubing cages hold up on seemingly hard rolls. (Of course, the cage came apart just trying to winch the CJ back on its wheels)

    What I'm saying is, it's your life, and the lives of your passengers- take the time to fully consider your cage mounts.
     
  10. Aug 3, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I disagree.

    I figure a data point is a data point. These rollcage discussions always seem to take place in the theoretical, so I figure real-world examples of specific rollcages and rollovers and what happened as a result are helpful.

    FWIW - Dutch's body wasn't solidly attached to the frame and the rear fenderwells were heavily rusted under the rollcage plate.
     
  11. Aug 3, 2005
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

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    I notice Boyink wrote: “heavily rusted under the rollcage plate”. This implies that the cage tie points were reinforced with plates at tiepoints, and is probably one reason why the cage wasn’t torn off by the rollover. The impact of a rollover (call it 3g, or 3x the Jeep weight, just for argument’s sake) will cause less damage, if it is spread out over a wider area. The cages I’ve seen torn free in rollovers were either welded right to the fenderwells, or bolted on using only washers underneath (This doesn’t include high-speed crashes with equipment not prepped for racing). The idea of a muffler-tube rollcage doesn’t even bear discussion. Might as well make one from PVC pipe, and paint it to look like steel.
     
  12. Aug 3, 2005
    LWB

    LWB ..they call me "Cooter"

    Chicago
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    Actually the muffler tubing cage is perfectly acceptable in this instance- If we are considering any and all "Data Points".

    The point is that it held up in a hard roll (bolted to a 'glass body with only washers, no less) and the owner decided to put another one in his rebuild of the rig because "the last one held up just fine".

    Would I ever build an exhaust tubing cage? No.

    Would I suggest someone use one?? Never.

    But the fact remains that someone used a singular sample to convince himself that his exhaust tubing rollcage was more than strong enough. I say he was very lucky.

    Let's look at it this way- say you were in a very bad roll on the trail, and were thrown clear of your jeep because you weren't wearing a seat belt.
    Does that mean not wearing your selt belt is perfectly safe?

    Also- 1 1/4 turns is actually easier on a cage in most instances than a full turn onto the lid, as usually the greatest force is when the rig first hits and when it stops.


    -Cooter
    (Just giving a little perspective from someone who has been in 3 rolls, including a 3 turn barrellroll, and has seen over 10 others in person.)
     
  13. Aug 3, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    It does? :D

    They weren't:

    Here's what was under the 'cage plates.

    [​IMG]

    But the cage was also bolted through the body sides, which I'm assuming provided most of the strength.

    I didn't say "make a decision from one data point". I just provided one data point, and hope others can provide more. I'd much rather make a decision based on good theory plus a few real world examples than theory alone.
     
  14. Aug 3, 2005
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

    California High...
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    Boyink - That ain't metal, that's Swiss Cheese! Someone hand me a roll of duct tape!
     
  15. Aug 3, 2005
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Take a look at my Web Shots... Black '46 barrel rolled onto top. Bolted to body. I went over a ledge 3X end over end 5X on the side dropping @ 175' as a teenager - Dad and I both walked away - Bolted to the body. Friend ripped to shreads as the body came off around him - bolted to the frame. I also have several others to site of both directions.

    Point being, you should ask for the pros and cons and get some details of the different ways these can be built. There is no 'one right answer' as alot of what works will deal with how you use it and the skills used to build it. You must try to match the skill with the usage to get the safest setup possible for YOU...
     
  16. Aug 30, 2005
    CJMace

    CJMace Member

    Columbus, OH
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    I can not agree more with the "its your life, and sometimes more importantly, its your passengers life"
    I had a well designed rollcage welded by a certified welder, and attatched to a solid tub with large plates on top and bottom of the mounting points.
    Went back end over front end one night on a washed out trail, and completely destroyed the roll cage and tub. Spent 8 hours in ER, spent months rebuilding tub to fit back on frame. Have since had Kentrol Industries build an entire 6pt cage with frame tie ins. I put a good friends life in jeapardy, made my brother come over a ledge to see my flatfender laying upside down in a creek with the cage and windshield frame flattened to the top of the cowl, just thinking the worst. Not a good experience on any level except that we are both ok, and now I have a cage that will withstand multiple rollovers. I built the jeep originally for some easy trails and riding in the woods. Wheeling an old jeep is a slippery slope and those tougher trails become more appealing every time you see them. I would recommend spending the extra couple dollars and hours, and tie any cage you run into the frame. Even a factory 4pt properly tied into the frame will save you and your passengers head in a serious roll.

    You only get one head, and they are kindof tough to repair.
     
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