Hammerite vs. Rust Encapsulator

158-726 Home Depot SKU
0 51652 42240 UPC

$5.67 per can at HD store 8949.

Your BORG (Big Orange Retail Giant) should be able to tell you if they stock it or can check stock at nearby stores.

 

Holy crap! That's a 1/3rd of what I paid per can at Jamestown, BEFORE shipping.

I feel like a stooge now... I paid 4x what I could have...

 

I don't know whay that stuff is so hard to find. My wife even had trouble finding info on it at work. I am going to check at the distributor tomorrow here. I will report back.

 

got my rust cap today yeah! but i have a cold, ahhhchew! that sucks. can u reuse the gallon if you seal it good?

 

I've been using the Rust Encapsulator as a primer all over the frame, springs, axles, tranny, everything. Then I'm putting the Eastwood Frame Paint over that for an "80% gloss" epoxy finish. I can only say one thing........man, is it getting expensive but it looks great. I would only recommend it for a resto.

You can go to www.eastwoodco.com to purchase. They're service is the best I've ever seen. I order ground and ALWAYS get it next day from PA. You can call them and ask to speak to one of they're "Techs" to get any answers to your questions. Nice and helpful.

 

Gump...Did you have that stuff sandblasted or anything first? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but I'm looking at the POR-15 products. I was going to go with powdercoating because it's cheap enough, but I've been wondering how well that coating would get into the nooks and crannies. Plus, there's the satisfaction of painting the stuff yourself that I'd miss out on, that's half the fun.

 

Eastwood makes the same claim, just get the flaky stuff off but I wire brushed and sanded were it was bad. If it was heavy rust they have that aluminum oxide stuff (can't think of the name) and that does a great job. Look under Eastwood's rust treatment site. I'm doing a resto so I was skim coating the heavily pocked stuff after using the Rust Encapsulator over the rust. I'm a detail man

Eastwood also has a BB for help. I've gotten some advise from them on their Bulletin Board.

 

Ok, my final oppinion is ready, just got home and got a chance to check out my painted parts after some time away.

Rust Cap is awesome... BUT - make sure you prep correctly, and make sure you get the proper thickness.

Steering column was wirebrushed till it shone - completely clean, no grease or anything like that. No leftover paint. Gave 'er ~5 coats (IIRC) from the rattle can. Paint's hard as a rock now, looks great. Only problem areas are where I sprayed too thick and it ran slightly, and where the tube was pitted from rust - obviously not the paints fault on either count. In all, fantastic results.

Tranny crossmember and skidplate were wirebrushed, but still felt slightly greasy. I had wiped them both down completely with a rag, but had not washed them with soapy water or degreaser or anything like that. Paint went on and looked good, but did not adhere nearly as well as it did on the steering column. Could be easily scraped off with a fingernail. I'm shooting another couple coats on and calling it good, though, for now. May revisit them later.

One engine mount I gave it a try on, it appears I didn't get the thickness I needed as some rust was getting through - from one angle it looked perfectly black, from another it looked black with a dusting of powdered rust... so not like big rust spots, but it was coming through. Oh, and I should mention no real prep on the motor mounts beyond knocking off the loose stuff with some light wirebrushing.

So my final consensus is, works great but make sure the surfaces you're painting are free of any grime or oil (which should go without saying, but I rushed it and screwed up), and if you are painting over rust make sure you get it nice and thick! Personally I'm gonna clean up everything as much as I can, and only paint over rust when I have to...

So that's that! Now I gotta head to Home Despot and see if they do in fact have it.

 

I sand blasted my frame back in march of this year, cleaned it using Eastwood Pre-cleaner then coated it with Rust Incapsulator using a brush, I then coated the whole frame with 3 spray cans of Eastwood chassis black. I took it to Tellico in mid may, ran the trails, nothing to difficult and have driven it another 400 miles since then including a little offroad trip around here, the stuff has held up good except where the battery busted at Tellico and the acid got on the frame in one small area. I cleaned it down and recoated it when I got home, its holding up great and its easy to clean.

 

How much did that run ya, and how was the finish?

 

Finish was semi-rough and not a single spot of rust or paint anywhere. Ground off all the spatter from the factory welds and redid some of them. It cost $140 to blast it.

 

Ask for the paint that sticks to ice . Oil or grease is THE worst enemy of paint, besides bugs. I used the strongest paint remover Home Depot had and it worked great, then deturgent/grease remover, then PRE or any kind of cleaner/prep to really clean it good.

I would have blasted but they are all soooo expensive here. I paid $96.00 just for the hood because it was rusted so bad and pocked up. I'm still skim coating the hood until it's perfect.

 

Yeah, chalk that one up to inexperience. Felt iffy about it going in... bleh.

On the up side, it'll probably come off easy to re-do.

 

I have the same problem with my frame being pocked up. How do you do your skim coat?

 

Hate to say it, but.............Eastwood, again. They have fillers, I think I used Rage for heavy filling and they have another on the same page specified for "skim coating". I just take my time skimming and sanding. Then I use a thin layer of black lacquer and use a sanding stick to find the low/high spots. I want to use a gloss base so I don't want any ripples or low spots.