Clutch fork/Pressure plate issue

Hey,

Well I finally found the time to drop the tranny on the CJ to fix this clutch fork issue the PO had told me about. It seems as though the clutch fork is rubbing against the pressure plate casing?

Here is a pic of the old clutch fork with the marks from the pressure plate, and the plate with the marks from the fork:




The clutch fork itself had a broken tab where it mates to the pivot ball so I know that wasn't helping things, but the fork didn't seem to be out of place at all it just wouldn't pivot. I thought maybe a shim between the tranny and bellhousing might give a little more clearance for the fork to clear the pressure plate but I'm not sure? It also makes me worry about fitting the drive shafts back up when I get everything back together.

I have a new fork, it looks identical to the one I took out but when I tried to slide the TO bearing on the fork it won't slide on easy like the old one? I'll save this issue for when I put it back together but in the meantime if you guys can give some advice on why you think the fork would be interfering with the plate I would really appreciate it. I'd really hate put everything back together and have the same clearance issue.

Any advice you can give me would be much appreciated!

TIA,

-Steve

 

got another pic of the pivot inside the bellhousing ?

wow...the pic is tricky
almost looks to me like the fork was installed backwards from here
either way, don't like the looks of that fork

 

looks to me like your pplate is to wide. are sure it is the correct one?
if you can measure it's width i can compare it to one i have in the garage for you.

thanks, chris

 

is that shiny spot on the fork where the pivot ball was riding?? If so, the fork is backwards.

JB

 

look at the pics. the fork is rubbing on the pplate on the correct side.

btw, DON"T shim your bellhousing for clearance. i still think that pressure plate is causing your problems.

chris

 

The fork was on the correct way as Chris said, my monitor here at work may be bad but it looks like the fork is bent a little on this monitor. And I agree with Chris on the pressure plate, it does not look right, mine was more rounded on the edge and didn't look quite that deep.

 

X3 on the pressure plate depth. Mine looked just like this:

 

It's 2D deception. I had to look more closely myself. It's kinda "countersunk" but the pivot ball goes in the opposite side.

 

They make about 3 different length pivot balls, I think you need a shorter one.

JB

 

looks like the wong pressure plate. I would check with the local parts store and I bet you will find the replacement pressure plate is thinner. Doesnt look like any I have ever pulled out of a Jeep before. As for the ball, I dont see how it could get shorter By much at all) over time.

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for the input! That picture of the fork even had me fooled, I had to run out to the garage and make sure I wasn't seeing things, but yes its just a weird illusion the fork was on the right way.

I think what I might do is just by a new clutch for it, AFAIK this clutch is new but it certainly seems to be to deep. I won't mess with any shimming.

I'll probably go to Napa, or, there is another local parts store thats always been good to me. Could you guys provide the part numbers for the clutch, fork and pivot ball I should buy? I was at the parts store asking about a pivot ball and like you guys said they make a couple different lengths, I assume I need to buy the whole clutch and can't get just the pressure plate?

Chris, the pressure plate is 2.5" deep.

Thanks! I'll keep you guys updated.

-Steve

 

That looks like a borg & Beck style clutch cover. I don't like the feel of diaphram clutches but usually use them for the lower pedal force required. I'm not sure you need a new PP, I'll bet you could shorten the pivot ball and gain the clearance required.

If you do replace all parts I would use a diaphram PP. You should be able to buy a clutch disk, PP and ball all separately.

And good decision..........don't shim the bellhousing.

JB

 

Just a thought. It could also have the wrong pivet ball. I'd measure its lenth and check that too. Best cover all the bases while its apart.

 

That's a Borg & Beck pressure plate for sure. Should be a Borg Warner diaphragm type in there. I've just pulled my tranny out yesterday so you're in luck.

On my 225 V6/T-14 bellhousing the pivot stud is 1.5-inches from aluminum to tip of ball. The arm is 8.5-inches tip-to-tip, and the pressure plate (Borg Warner diaphragm) is 2-inches thick where yours seems to be hitting.

 

So you think I just need to get another a shorter pivot ball to make it work? Thanks for the measurements I'll check the pivot ball tomorrow, that would definitely save me some money. I did measure the thickness of the pressure plate though and mine was 2.5" where yours is 2", that seems like the right amount to cause an interference like this. Why would mine be thicker?


So out of the three pivot balls available I should just order the shortest one? I'll try the shorter pivot ball first, if that doesn't solve the issue I guess I'll just buy a new clutch.

Thanks!!

-Steve

 

Well I decided to just buy a whole new clutch, I also ordered a new pivot ball that is adjustable. I figure this way when I put it back together it will work (hopefully) and I won't have to tear into it for a while.

The TOB that was on there was new, but I couldn't get it to slide onto the new cluth fork very easily (it slid on the old one just fine), are these supposed to slide on easy or do they require a little force? I ended up tapping it on with a rubber mallet and it separated into two pieces? I'll have a new one with the new clutch kit and I don't want to separate this one, should I grind a little material off the edges of the fork where the TOB slides in?

Thanks!