Clutch slave cylinder / exhaust clearance

I'm trying to get rid of my headers and go back to exhaust manifolds, but the clutch slave cylinder looks to be right in the way of the driver's side down pipe. Anyone else ran into this? Do I need to suck it up and put in a pull style slave instead of the push style?

On a side note, is $150 a good price to have the used exhaust manifolds machined flat? Seems like a lot to me, but I don't really know.

 

I did a bracket on the T-90 and D18 and mounted a push cylinder on an arm that works the clutch fork using the factory Jeep cable.

Its out of the way of all exhaust routes.

Too much for a manifold mill!

BTW it is possible to modify and Nickle weld an exhaust manifold to re-route the exhaust.

 

You could get a passenger side manifold and mount it on the drivers side. That way you will have a front dump exhaust.

 

I can't do the front dump manifold because of the steering shaft. I was thinking of making the slave mount off of the transmission like you said, but then i'd have to buy a pull style slave cylinder and make a new bracket for it, so I'm still fishing for more options I guess, even though that might be the only answer.

 

Exhaust manifold would be cheaper. It should be easy too clear the steering shaft. I cleared the slave cylinder and the exhaust with my rear dump manifold.

http://groups.msn.com/ScottMilliner/scottsjeeppictures.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=93

http://groups.msn.com/ScottMilliner/scottsjeeppictures.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=217

Keep in mind that this is a Chevy motor.

 

I know the rear dump one will clear the steering shaft. My slave cylinder set up is just about exactly the same as yours, but the exhaust shop said it wouldn't work. I'm going to go back out and look at it again. Maybe your chevy manifold dumps a little farther forwards than the buick one?

 

I just went out and looked, and my slave cylinder is a lot closer to the exhaust than yours, it's right under the rear-most exhaust port. What I really need is an exhaust manifold that dumps straight down in the center.... does that exist?

 

If you can dump outside the frame rails, then you can modify the DR side manifold by welding a different outlet in the manifold.
On the PASS side you can build a looped pipe and dump out the fender well also.


Just a thought

 

I like the idea of modifying the driver's side manifold. If I moved the outlet so it dumps straight down, I could still have it dump inside the frame rails. I just have to find someone with a stick welder to weld it up for me.

So if I cut the outlet off of the manifold, I can cut a hole where I want to put it and make it fit there, that part's straight forward enough. But what do I use to patch the hole where the outlet originally was? Can I use mild steel to patch the hole, or does it all need to be cast iron?

I'm sure mig welding probably gets pretty much no penetration welding cast iron, but would it work well enough to tack weld the manifold back together to take to someone else to weld?

One last thing comes to mind. With headers all of the downpipes should be the same length, are there any considerations like this for stock manifolds? Does it matter where the outlet is on the manifold, or how smooth of a path the exhaust has through it?

 

I used a pull slave cylinder on my SM420. Summit has them for $45.00 or $48.00...cheaper than exhaust shop work.

 

You could also build a shorty header with one of those kits! Mine looks close also, but I think it will clear and not add too much heat to the slave cylinder.

 

I've thought about that, but im tired of having the headers leaking all the time. It's still a possibility since I could probably make them better than the hedderman one's I have. Where can you find the kits? I've never seen those before.

If I don't do that, I'm probably going to end up modifying the exhaust manifold.

 

I think JEGS or Summit Racing has them.