brake drum stud question

i've read the huge long thread about drum removal. it all makes sense.... of course until it comes to my 69 10" drums.

the pics below show the type of studs i have on the front. i cannot get the drum off (note the copious amount of PB) tapped em, hammered em, even talked dirty to em (twice!). no dice. lol, note the center punch marks on the stud end.

do these pictures show the type of stud/drum that has to be pressed or hammered out? the alternative being to remove the drum with the hub? as i said they're 10" drums.

my brakes are pulling to the driver's side when i really lay into em. but are find when i slow gently for a while. almost like the drivers side is oil soaked. which makes sense since when i got it the ps pump leaked like a sieve.

disks on the front are looking better and better. maybe when i get the cash...
anyway .... help!? and thanks

 

they appear to be swaged together, which would be the way from the factory.
You have to pull the hub/drum assy to get to the brakes.
To seperate them, it takes a special hollow bit to fit down over the stud and cut the stud material away; that would then seperate the two; care needs to be taken so as to not enlarge the drum stud holes.
If you go that far (replacing a drum would be the time) you could then press out the old damaged studs, and then install the type that the drum will slip over; makes drum removal much easier.
For know, also check the wheel bearings while you are there.
If it's pulling to the driver's side, be aware your problem could be on the pass side. Might be a good idea to check both.

 

thanks jim. that's sort of what i was afraid of. i figured i'd repack and reset the bearings if i had to remove the hub anyway. might as well replace the standard lock out with the 10 spline IH premium hub i found at the same time. (this cj came with a premium warn on the pass side and standard jeep lockout on the driver's side.)

and yep, the pass side was gonna be next. then the rears. just to see.
hopefully by the time i needed to replace the drums, i will have already converted to either 11" on all four or disks on the front.

should i expect the same swaged problem on the rears?

 

thought it was just the front
I could be wrong
seems their might be screws holding the drums to the hub in the rear
if they are swaged in the rear, that means hub puller time...
others will know

 

oh well. i'll find out when i get there i guess.

thanks jim!