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Removing Powdercoat

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Boyink, Jul 9, 2005.

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  1. Jul 9, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I'm stuck....

    I got the red paint off SSDutch's rear corners using aircraft remover (did a great job on those pesky fly-overs too...cool stuff..;))

    The powdercoat is another story...just bubbled, enough to prevent getting a paint job over it. I hit it again with the paint remover, but just more little bubbles. Doesn't get soft enough to scrape off.

    My little benchtop sandblaster doesn't touch the stuff...

    My only thoughts at this point are to try burning it off with a torch...or take them to a pro sandblaster and hope his is powerful enough to get it.

    Any other ideas?
     
    Boyink, Jul 9, 2005
    #1
  2. Jul 9, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I think I'd shy away from the torch, you don't want them to warp any....
    Are they still mounted? Or did you take them back off? If they are off, could you soak them in airplane remover :)D) one side at a time, like overnight?
     
    Patrick, Jul 9, 2005
    #2
  3. Jul 9, 2005
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    yup, i used patricks method on some stubborn paint.... when i pulled it back out the paint had just dissolved off of it. don't know if the powder coating would take to this treatment though.
     
    gte636p, Jul 9, 2005
    #3
  4. Jul 9, 2005
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

    California High...
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    We make our own stripper for taking powdercoat off military parts at work (Usually because the vender got the FED-STD color wrong). It's liquid, so you have to find a way to keep it on non-immersable vertical parts for awhile, but it works well for us. 2 parts acetone, 2 parts xylol, 1 part MEK (methyl ethyl keytone). All this stuff should be available at any good hardware or paint store, and it's the same stuff in commercial paint strippers, but cheaper and a little more concentrated. For vertical surfaces, just soak it in a rag, and keep it wet. The stuff is flammable, and makes bad fumes and isn't so nice on your skin, so use in a well-ventilated area away from sparks or flames, and wear protective gloves. We use the military black chemical gloves that are in all the surplus stores now.
     
    Mojave, Jul 9, 2005
    #4
  5. Jul 9, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    They're off.

    I'll see if I can figure a way of soaking one overnight in the aircraft remover and see what happens.

    Otherwise I'll try Mojave's Reciepe (sounds like a bomb formula...;)

    Thanks!
     
    Boyink, Jul 9, 2005
    #5
  6. Jul 9, 2005
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Carb cleaner.........(no kidding)
     
    blevisay, Jul 9, 2005
    #6
  7. Jul 9, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    You must have a special blend.

    Mine didn't touch it. Spot was nice and clean tho...

    Corners are soaking in a drip pan...we'll see what they look like tomorrow.
     
    Boyink, Jul 9, 2005
    #7
  8. Jul 9, 2005
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
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    Brake fluid....
     
    panzer, Jul 9, 2005
    #8
  9. Jul 9, 2005
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Nope not at all..........................Just pretend you just want to clean it....................trust me ;)
     
    blevisay, Jul 9, 2005
    #9
  10. Jul 9, 2005
    Mojave

    Mojave Member

    California High...
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    The old-fashioned, high VOC carb dips were murder on plastics and paints. I've found the new stuff to be pretty mild though - and the different carb sprays vary, but on the whole, the brake cleaners still on the market seem to me to be a bit more aggressive. What brand are you using, Blevisay, and what "vintage"?
     
    Mojave, Jul 9, 2005
    #10
  11. Jul 10, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    The overnight soak appears to have worked.

    Now to figure out how to get the radiused sections soaking overnight...
     
    Boyink, Jul 10, 2005
    #11
  12. Jul 10, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Deeper bucket?
    Good deal Mike...
     
    Patrick, Jul 10, 2005
    #12
  13. Jul 10, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Yea, that's easy enough but I don't have the quantity of stripper to get it that deep. Only bought a quart (and it's now gone), and at $10 for that I'd rather not have to spring for a gallon. I think another quart and we'll just have to rotate the corners through it a section at a time.

    I need a spit! ;)
     
    Boyink, Jul 10, 2005
    #13
  14. Jul 10, 2005
    vanguard

    vanguard

    How about brushing on and covering with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation?
     
    vanguard, Jul 10, 2005
    #14
  15. Jul 10, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Dunno....I'd half expect it to eat the plastic....
     
    Boyink, Jul 10, 2005
    #15
  16. Jul 10, 2005
    vanguard

    vanguard

    I've just seen the trick done by woodworkers. Might try a small sample.
     
    vanguard, Jul 10, 2005
    #16
  17. Jul 10, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I'll see where they're at tomorrow....it looks like the powdercoat might pull off in sheets...maybe the corner stuff will come off too.

    I was going to try leaving just one corner in overnight as a sample...but figured the entire corners are small enough - might as well treat em all...;)
     
    Boyink, Jul 10, 2005
    #17
  18. Jul 10, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    So, this is a little late..... But why did you want to remove the powder coating?
     
    Patrick, Jul 10, 2005
    #18
  19. Jul 10, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I didn't.
     
    Boyink, Jul 10, 2005
    #19
  20. Jul 11, 2005
    Dummy

    Dummy I kick hippies

    Escondido, CA
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    If you've got a 4-1/2-inch grinder, try a Gator Grit silicon carbide paint and rust remover wheel (PN 9483). I get mine at the tool section of Lowe's. They whiz through paint and powder coat without getting clogged or taking away a lot of metal. Just be careful with the disc when working the edges of what you're stripping or they wear away rather quickly.
     
    Dummy, Jul 11, 2005
    #20
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