1959 Cj-5 302 Swap. Help Me To Help Myself......

not much yet today... Alternator is mounted... Modified the lower "swinging" mount with a pie cut to allow full travel on the alternator while using a bolt that actually exists on this pump. (the pass side outlet has a bolt boss where this one doesnt...) Also got the alternator to regulator harness built. Ill be mounting the regulator on the upper firewall, out of the way, and accessible. Since I have the choice of where to put it, I can NOT do what every other automotive engineer does, and BURY THE DAMN THING where you cant get to it easily.....

I have the length measured for a belt, and a couple on order (one size each way from "nominal" to see which works best.. Ill return the other two....

 

well, today ended up being more of an adventure, than working on the Jeep. Heard back from a gentleman about a VERY cheap seat for the Jeep. For $10, I didnt (and still dont) care that its a bit "rough" and doesnt have a frame or sliders.... It will at least allow me to fabricobble something so I can sit in the damn Jeep on other than on a milk crate... Finally got the BAT wire for the alternator made and connected, as I had stopped at AutoZone on my way out of town.... Got the belt as well, and lo and behold the first one I had specced for WORKS... so I can return the 1/2" longer and shorter belts... Im right in the middle of the adjustment range, so PERFECT... plastic shipping tie works good as a measuring tool... My IKEA floorboards also came today, so that can continue on as well....



it fits, and even relatively lines up... If I need to adjust it in a bit more, Ill know more when the engine is running....





2 12x24 pieces of 18ga should be more than enough to do whats left of the floors, with some left over.

 

well, took another bite of the elephant this morning. Wired the front headlights, at least as far as the dimmer switch. I need to get some cable clamps before the wiring gets completely out of hand.... I will need to get new front turn signal/parking lamps though.. the wiring on the ones I have is crunchy, and I dont have lenses.... I suppose I could disassemble them and try to rewire, but is it really worth the trouble... I can deal with Indian replacements....

"SQUIRREL" mode continues though, Ill likely be back onto the firewall once it warms up a bit. I need to run to WallyWorld and get some more deathwheels, and some groceries... I can also take back the two belts I didnt need, and get that $16 bucks back into the pot for other things I DO need.... like some more steel to make a seat mount.... or a PS pump and brackets.... or.........the list is still endless

 

work continues on the firewall rebuild. Welded the center piece into the two sides I had previously made. Used a few self tappers to hold it in place so I can start reconstructing the sides that will be part of this piece as well. I want good access, but I dont need the whole thing removable. Structure takes precedence over access here..... Ill leave enough room on the back so I can remove the panel to get the upper bellhousing bolts, but thats about it, aside from what the factory panel gives. Im kind of using that as a template for where to recreate steel....





sadly the center section of the original cover hits the bellhousing pretty hard, so that will get removed, and a new piece grafted in. Will come to about an inch or so above the lower edge of the new firewall section and will give good access. then need to graft in some sides, hopefully without too much trouble. The 18ga works MUCH nicer than the 16ga... that stuff was like trying to bend tank armor... I can manipulate the thinner stuff with just a little gentle persuasion..... Ill probably get over to the drivers side for now. I wont do much with that until I get the steering redone, to avoid cutting and patching new work. the column looks like its gonna go through the firewall about 2" higher than it currently does, and will then clear the exhaust, and the engine crossmember, then dip below the forward crossmember to meet with the gearbox. That will give me enough angle on it for the tilt function to be useful, and not so much that the wheel face is nearly vertical.

 

very complex, high level CAD design going into this floor cover.... Now down to the "plasma table" (otherwise known as the Walmart HyperTough angle grinder) and Computer guided bending brake (also known as the cheapie KaKa brake from Amazon) to make this piece in steel.... It aint fancy, but its gonna be functional... If I dont get this done by tomorrow, Im gonna lose the shop!!! (wait, im already outside... I LOST THE SHOP ALREADY!!!!!) yeah, I watch too much stuff on TV....



Yes, im using self tappers to hold it in place at the moment... if I like the positioning, Ill redrill for a riv-nut, if not, ill weld it shut, and drill a new hole... Measure twice, cut once doesnt mean anything when you have a welder to put Humpty Dumpty back together again....




once I get it all finalized, Ill see where I need to chop the old cover, and then weld this in to replace it. It will likely have more new steel than old in it when Im done, but it was a starting point....

and its now in steel... Im done for today.. I have some appointments at the house tomorrow, so I need to get cleaned up around here a bit.... sweep, mop, do dishes, and try and keep the dogs from undoing it all....





again, self tappers are just for alignment purposes... this part of the cover will get welded on shortly... I figure its easier to fill a small hole, than disassemble, and get it in the wrong spot when the hood comes down, and the stinger goes live....

 

Lol. That's the same plasma cutter I have. Don't be afraid to lift that tub off if needed. We lifted a stripped tub with two people. I did the last one with an engine hoist by myself.

 

So far haven’t seen the need to pull the tub. Everything has been VERY accessible so far. Compared to modern vehicles, it’s a dream to work on

 

ok, this morning has been taken up with re-organizing my shop, getting the new air compressor taken down there, and a few other assorted domestic chores. Finally got started on the firewall again, and started with removing the Ross box... verdict is, its SHOT... nearly 3/4" slop in the pitman arm where it attaches to the drag link, so totally unacceptable. Good thing its going away... Stole a broomstick from the wife, and used that to mock up the position for the new column, and it looks like right at the top of the existing aperture at the firewall, and in the stock half moon at the dash will give be a good angle, both for the driver, but also to clear most everything... I will likely have to massage the #6 header pipe with a 5# sledge and a large piece of round stock, but thats not a real issue.... other than that, I have a straight shot right where I want to go for the steering shaft.

Onto sheetmetal work... I put a couple riv-nuts in the upper section where the new removable lower will sit, to finalize that location... and then started with the CAD on the drivers side... I have the pieces drafted, now just need to make them in steel, and get them tacked into place. then its just the upper firewall fixed piece, and the rear section behind the shifters... and a bit more rust repair... my screws are pulling right through the rusty bits, so they have to get restructured.... no biggie there....

Drivers header now fits. with the exception of #6 header pipe, its gonna be fine...



this side still clears fine, as long as I route the battery cables appropriately....



a little more cardboard, a little less hole....



the only firewall section still left to fabricate...



ok, maybe only a small piece left to do ... my grinder battery packed it in, so its time for a break. Ill do some welding on it likely tomorrow. Its getting warm, and I'm getting ready to call it quits for today... One more day left, then back to work... for a needed break. I may need more steel for the rest of the floor... this has eaten most of my second sheet of 18ga....

 

back at it with the floorboards and firewall today. Got the final piece of the pie fitted. but not before the spool ran out, and I needed to get more wire... right when you get in a groove, the damn thing runs out. turns out I was using Forney wire before... Not real impressed with it. Got a spool of Lincoln this time, along with new contact tips, and it made a huge difference. Welds are a bit smoother, the arc was more stable, and I didnt blow through quite as much in the thin spots....

I need to final grind the fixed piece, then get the holes drilled for plug welds, and then I can screw it in for the last time... FINALLY... Im about as sick of working on that as y'all are of watching me do it.... This must have udders, cause Ive been milking the hell out of this job.... the rest should be easier, hopefully....

 

well, its time to make it permanent... got it about half welded in, then the sun was affecting how well I could see through the mask... If I cant see it, I really cant weld it, so Ill wait until dusk or so when the shadows arent as profound.... I dont think Ill have much issue with light, since welding makes its own.... Hopefully Ill have it in tonite, then I can move on to finalizing positions for the riv-nuts for the removeable section...

 

Now that it's coming together I'm seeing your toploader shifter box sitting further back that mine which is good. I'm not sure how mine worked out that way but it sucks. Seems like they should be identical. Are you running an under seat tank?

Edit: I figured it out. Your engine is sitting further back and that brings the shifter further back. Your not running an under set tank so you have room to work with. I'm going to eventually try and locate a top shifter and that will solve my problem.

 

Based on the original cutout, it appears my whole transfer case and engine are about 2” or so further back than they would have originally been. Where that puts the top loader shifter otherwise, I don’t know, but the bracket for it bolts even with the back of the gearbox/front of transfer case joint.

 

Well, Saginaw parts have started to arrive. Gearbox, u-joints and column are here.

 

ok, we are back on the Willys this morning. Started with wiring. Not very photogenic, so no pics as of yet. Lots of zip ties, and loose wiring (waiting for some p-clips to hang it). Just about everything is wired save for brake lights and turn signals. Connector to mate with the new column should be here today, so that will be a clean installation, and easy to replace the turn switch in the column should it prove to be very Chinese.... Installed the air horn, and tested the compressor, that works great. Headlights are all wired into the switch, and its getting proper power from the fuse block. Mounted the block up under the drivers side of the dash, outboard. Was already a firewall penetration there, so just using that to run the wires through. I need to get a high amperage fuse or circuit breaker for the main ignition switch feed, I dont trust a 10ga unfused wire..... yeah, if it goes off, it will kill the whole Jeep, but better than a direct short with no protection.... Felt good to actually be able to crank it over with the proper keyed switch for a change....

 

ok, while I wait for the stores to open this morning to get a 2" hole saw so I can start my column installation, I decided to try and fit the seat, and of course, see how well it works for me.... Short answer is, it doesnt... not as it sits anyway... with the seat on a milk crate (only thing I have as a riser thats even close), and all the way back against the wheel well, I still need about another 3" further back, and about 2-3" down.... looks like I get to modify the wheel well to fit my 6'5" frame.... Down is a must, my line of vision is DIRECTLY in line with the top bar of the windshield, and back would be NICE for a bit more legroom, especially once I go down...

this is a YJ seat I got off marketplace for $10, so if there is a better option (other than stock '59 CJ) im all ears. The seat itself is comfortable, but I need more room....

 

If you are 6'-5" you will definitely want a wheel well notch! These early jeeps were made for people from the 1920's.

 

lotta little things done today. Steering column is mocked up. Ill have the wheel adapter here today, and the wheel and lower mount tomorrow. I can still get it wired into the system though. Took the steering parts out to meet the Jeep, and the meeting was semi successful. I know where I will be sticking the column, and I shouldnt have to change much if anything under the hood. The 3/4" DD shaft should clear nicely, although I bought one thats going to be too short... oh well, if I need another U-joint in the system, I just get another 18" section and can use this one, otherwise, Ill need about a 24" piece....

installed the radiator, and introduced it to the hoses. All ready to fire this thing up, except I cant find my little electric fuel pump.... oh well. Ill go and look for it a bit more later today. That will tell me if the carb is any good, or whether I need to either get a new one, or rebuild this one.

I need to look through my scrap wood pile, and see what I have I can make a proper seat riser out of, rather than using the milk crate. The wife wouldnt appreciate it if I cut that down to the proper height.... and she isnt enamoured with the Jeep as it is.....

 

did a bit more wiring. Got the column wired in, using the factory GM style connector. Summit has the "body" side connector for $14 or so

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AWW-500428

this kept it clean, and since I have the pin crimpers already, it was a no brainer to use as much factory style connector as possible. If the turn signal switch takes a dump, I can plug a new one in that is available nearly anywhere (or used to be..... dont get me started....) and be back in business in little to no time, save for pulling the wheel.

Now I need to run the wires to the *** end for brake, turn signals and markers. Looks like according to this post:

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/145295/

the harness originally ran outside the tub and down the left frame rail. I am not a fan of that idea, so I think Ill find a way to run it internally, probably under the lip on the drivers side of the tub. Just dont know how I will keep it there yet. Im sure something will present itself to me... Im thinking possibly pop riveting the clips to the lip itself, which wont be very visible once the body is painted and I call this done.... we shall see. worst case, it looks like dookie, and I have to weld up some 1/8" holes.... (Ill add them to the list....)

Imma gonna call that done for today, its getting windy, and since I dont have a garage, and Im waiting on parts anyway.... Ill go think on the rear lighting situation over a couple (dozen) adult beverages.... and then get ready to make Chimichurri Chicken for dinner tonight (Meat Church recipe this week, and it looked good...)

 

more wiring this morning, finishing it up pretty much. Only thing not done is the Drivers front turn signal and the front marker function. I need to get a new base for the factory light mount (found one for the other side in an old trailer light, but I only had one.... go figure...

Brake lights work, turn signals work, rear markers, well, one works (old bulb most likely...) so nearly done with this. I'll still have to run a few things later such as a wire for the fuel sending unit, but until I get a tank, and then figure where to put it, I dont consider that a critical function.....

 

And a few more pieces to the puzzle. Steering wheel and column mount arrived. Horn button is useless, so for now I’ll do without. Likely will get a better wheel later on, but for now this makes it mobile, once I get the gear on, hooked up and the drag link measured. Looks like proper seat riser height for me is “three red bricks” and I’ll have to notch the wheel well about to the roll cage (should give me some front/back adjustment). Along with steering (still waiting on parts…) that will be next.